LOOKING BACK
This chapter will feature memories of
various writings from the past: some have been published before, sometimes in abridged form, some not published:
various writings from the past: some have been published before, sometimes in abridged form, some not published:
DOUKHOBOR CULTURAL HISTORY TOUR 1989
This was my second trip to the U S S R. Recent travellers to Russia will notice many differences that have occurred with the advent of new ‘freedoms’ which occurred after the collapse of the communist state. On the other hand, there were more Doukhobors in Russia then and it was a less fractious and a more quaint time. I have been to Russia many times since then, and the contrast is striking.
Doukhobor Cultural History Tour June '89
The idea of a visit to the Doukhobor villages was born in September, 1988, when Koozma J. Tarasoff, photojournalist, Doukhobor scholar and cross cultural worker, approached me about helping him guide this trip.
Friends of his had suggested that they would like to visit their ancestral land, and he was the logical candidate to carry out such a journey. He enlisted my help; in exchange for 'shepherding' our group, we would both have a free trip - hard to resist.
We produced press releases and began some publicity among the Doukhobors across Canada, particularly in British Columbia and Saskatchewan. Through contacts in Ontario and Alberta, Koozma soon had other people interested, such as Ontario Quakers who bad been active in working at Soviet-West student exchanges. Distant contacts in California also became interested, particularly from the Russian River area, originally a Russian settlement.
Koozma and 1 had worked on a documentary film that I bad produced called IN SEARCH OF UTOPIA - The Doukhobors, and thus we were both well suited for the task at band. We wrote and produced a publicity brochure, a brief history of the Doukhobors and a pamphlet of advice on travel in the USSR.
The idea of a visit to the Doukhobor villages was born in September, 1988, when Koozma J. Tarasoff, photojournalist, Doukhobor scholar and cross cultural worker, approached me about helping him guide this trip.
Friends of his had suggested that they would like to visit their ancestral land, and he was the logical candidate to carry out such a journey. He enlisted my help; in exchange for 'shepherding' our group, we would both have a free trip - hard to resist.
We produced press releases and began some publicity among the Doukhobors across Canada, particularly in British Columbia and Saskatchewan. Through contacts in Ontario and Alberta, Koozma soon had other people interested, such as Ontario Quakers who bad been active in working at Soviet-West student exchanges. Distant contacts in California also became interested, particularly from the Russian River area, originally a Russian settlement.
Koozma and 1 had worked on a documentary film that I bad produced called IN SEARCH OF UTOPIA - The Doukhobors, and thus we were both well suited for the task at band. We wrote and produced a publicity brochure, a brief history of the Doukhobors and a pamphlet of advice on travel in the USSR.
By May our goal of forty participants bad been reached. Dr. Charles Frantz, from Boston, an expert scholar on the Doukhobors, joined us as well, and our numbers were now drawn from across North America. Intours Corp. of Toronto was our agent, Intourist would take over in the Soviet Union.
I departed from British Columbia in May, stopping in Calgary to pick up Husky pins, (featuring a Canadian flag) which they were donating for us to distribute. Cities and local M.P.s had provided pins and flags as well.
In the late evening of the l8th. of May I was crossing the border into the U.S. south of Brandon, Manitoba. A harrowing search of my person and car was begun by a short, fat, friendly, bald man with a moustache and a gun and a wide mouthed, well toothed, forthright and friendly woman with a gun (who loved music; what are those? picks? what do you play with that?)
The search reaches an intense pitch when they discover my passport and Soviet visa, my U.S. social security number, all souvenirs and gifts such as buttons, caps, specially made t-shirts etc. Eventually, the humiliation is over (after my pockets are pulled inside out). I am released to the care of Dale of Dale's Motel, a 76 truck stop in Dunseith, North Dakota; featuring a bar, closed restaurant, and an effluent smelling room with a check out time of 12:00 noon.
I am off by 8:00 a.m., carefully saving my receipt as evidence for future duty-free purchases. (It turns out that the Canadian customs at Saulte Ste. Marie could not care less, and wave me through.) The first significant event of my Soviet trip is embedded firmly in mind.
A short trip to Ottawa, then back to Toronto for departure.
Landing in Paris, the plane hits the pavement with a frightening shudder, and once everyone realizes that we are safe, the passengers burst into applause. After the trip to Paris, where Air France has no vegetarian food for our vegetarian travellers, we change planes and move on to Moscow. Landing in Moscow, the touch down is almost perfect despite the speed, and everyone applauds again. Perhaps they just enjoy applauding. Most European pilots prefer to take off and land at greater speeds than pilots in North America since there is less danger of stalling.
In Moscow, there is lost luggage and disgruntled, hungry members. They feel better the next day and one of the highlights of the tour occurs. We travel by bus to Tula, and it is near here that Yasnaya Polyana, Tolstoy's estate, is kept as a museum. We are treated to a lengthy tour, down to complete details of which rooms appear in certain passages of his novels and in which rooms he wrote particular books. In the move of the Doukhobors from Russia to Canada, Lev Tolstoy was instrumental in both moral and financial help, donating the royalties of his novel, RESURRECTION, totally to the cause of the emigration.
On our trip to Tula, we notice that trees had been thinned along the road side. They were cut and stacked and presumably would be picked up by individuals or the city. Along this road, one of our people whose background was in construction commented that the highway was in very poor condition. (I had just driven across the northern U.S. where the road had been worse in many cases.)
In Moscow, there is lost luggage and disgruntled, hungry members. They feel better the next day and one of the highlights of the tour occurs. We travel by bus to Tula, and it is near here that Yasnaya Polyana, Tolstoy's estate, is kept as a museum. We are treated to a lengthy tour, down to complete details of which rooms appear in certain passages of his novels and in which rooms he wrote particular books. In the move of the Doukhobors from Russia to Canada, Lev Tolstoy was instrumental in both moral and financial help, donating the royalties of his novel, RESURRECTION, totally to the cause of the emigration.
On our trip to Tula, we notice that trees had been thinned along the road side. They were cut and stacked and presumably would be picked up by individuals or the city. Along this road, one of our people whose background was in construction commented that the highway was in very poor condition. (I had just driven across the northern U.S. where the road had been worse in many cases.)
Back in Moscow the next day, we are all to meet at Obshestva Rodina, an organization that strives to assist and maintain relations with people abroad of Russian origin. They are particularly friendly to the Doukhobors, and have had members visit Canada, as well as providing artists for special events etc.
Previous to this, we had the opportunity to discuss and ask questions of two Soviet journalists with opposing viewpoints regarding glasnost, perestroika, and general life in the Soviet Union today.
As the bus leaves the journalist meeting without me, (while I am searching for the bus), I am left to my own resources to find the office. This is more difficult than it sounds, since there are few phone books, and when you track one down, not everything is listed (This office wasn't). Finally, one of the helpful ladies in a nearby Intourist hotel thinks she might know someone who might know the number of someone who might know the number of someone who might know the number. When I phone them they do have the number of someone who might have the number or another number of someone who might have the number. Eventually, I do find a number, call them, get the address, and prepare to leave.
Now come the negotiations with a cab driver regarding type of currency, amount etc. Canadian money is not as popular as U S money, rubles do not seem to be very popular at all but are required use. Accepting U S money instead of rubles is punishable, so we resolve not to transfer money physically, I will leave the amount on the seat as I leave.
Once the deal is struck, I make the mistake of telling the driver that I could be late and I would appreciate some speed. He responds with uninhibited zeal and relish and causes some concern, not only to me but to other motorists and not a few pedestrians.
As I enter our group meeting already in progress, there is applause - they had noticed my absence.
Back in Moscow the next day, we are all to meet at Obshestva Rodina, an organization that strives to assist and maintain relations with people abroad of Russian origin. They are particularly friendly to the Doukhobors, and have had members visit Canada, as well as providing artists for special events etc.
Previous to this, we had the opportunity to discuss and ask questions of two Soviet journalists with opposing viewpoints regarding glasnost, perestroika, and general life in the Soviet Union today.
As the bus leaves the journalist meeting without me, (while I am searching for the bus), I am left to my own resources to find the office. This is more difficult than it sounds, since there are few phone books, and when you track one down, not everything is listed (This office wasn't). Finally, one of the helpful ladies in a nearby Intourist hotel thinks she might know someone who might know the number of someone who might know the number of someone who might know the number. When I phone them they do have the number of someone who might have the number or another number of someone who might have the number. Eventually, I do find a number, call them, get the address, and prepare to leave.
Now come the negotiations with a cab driver regarding type of currency, amount etc. Canadian money is not as popular as U S money, rubles do not seem to be very popular at all but are required use. Accepting U S money instead of rubles is punishable, so we resolve not to transfer money physically, I will leave the amount on the seat as I leave.
Once the deal is struck, I make the mistake of telling the driver that I could be late and I would appreciate some speed. He responds with uninhibited zeal and relish and causes some concern, not only to me but to other motorists and not a few pedestrians.
As I enter our group meeting already in progress, there is applause - they had noticed my absence.
A couple has lost their American Express cheques. The Cosmos Hotel does have an office but they can't phone the Express office in North America to cancel the numbers and they don't know where the office is in downtown Moscow. We later pass it coming back from the afternoon engagement but by this time they are closed.
Everyone agrees that our stay in Moscow is too short. One member from Sacramento comments that it is a relief not to see people looking through garbage for food or sleeping in doorways, a sight that he is treated to every morning on the way to work. Someone comments that there is nothing worthwhile in the garbage to salvage, probably true, since there is very little waste in the Soviet Union.
Everyone agrees that our stay in Moscow is too short. One member from Sacramento comments that it is a relief not to see people looking through garbage for food or sleeping in doorways, a sight that he is treated to every morning on the way to work. Someone comments that there is nothing worthwhile in the garbage to salvage, probably true, since there is very little waste in the Soviet Union.
One June 6, we are in Rostov-on-the-Don. We arrive early and are on a tour of the city before noon, a boat ride an the Don River in the afternoon past the docks where Peter the Great had begun his ship building. We are treated to an excellent banquet, then a surprise concert by a Cossack choir. lt is led by a Doukhobor, Vladimir Koochin, and some Doukhobor selections are included in the repertoire.
The next day we tour to Novi Cherkash, the location of the Cossack museum. We learn that the area had originally been settled by the Greeks, as indicated by modern day excavation. On the trip there, we are treated to miles of wind break trees planted along the road and throughout the country side. Everything seems green and lush, but we are told by our guide that this area has one of the lowest average rainfalls in the USSR. Not only are the trees wind breaks to combat soil drift, but they raise the water level and conserve what moisture there is. One cannot help but wonder what effect a similar program may have had in Saskatchewan fifty years ago or if some strips of trees had been left when mass deforestation had taken place.
That evening, we see a traditional concert by the Don Cossack choir, a spirited performance which some people had seen in North America or an television. A select few of our most miserly members stay in their rooms since this concert is not included in their total prearranged tour package. (the cost is $6.00, a maddening figure because of change logistics and I have to collect this from almost forty people.) After I do this, and purchase the mass ticket through the Service Bureau, we arrive at the theatre without it because I didn't take it with me. No matter, they let us in, it's a special performance for us and a large German tour. Unfortunately, no one has told them that not everyone speaks German. The entire program is announced in German by an unseen speaker. However, most of our group has a working knowledge of Russian and recognizes the names of the songs.
One of our people still has no luggage although we are checking regularly. Our offers of clothes are rejected and he seems to have a fair amount in his carry on bag, and also has bought a Russian summer shirt, a sporty number of blue and orange stripes.
Before we turn in for the night, we discover that a member has been robbed. Wisely, he had separated his traveller's cheques and cash into two separate amounts, so only half his money is stolen.
After coming in from a walk he decided to have a nap and left his door open for a cross draft. As his room mate returned, he was met by two individuals coming out of the room, presumably the robbers. We spend a long evening with a plain clothes police investigator; before morning, two culprits are apprehended and identified as the miscreants. The loot, however, is not recovered.
That evening, we see a traditional concert by the Don Cossack choir, a spirited performance which some people had seen in North America or an television. A select few of our most miserly members stay in their rooms since this concert is not included in their total prearranged tour package. (the cost is $6.00, a maddening figure because of change logistics and I have to collect this from almost forty people.) After I do this, and purchase the mass ticket through the Service Bureau, we arrive at the theatre without it because I didn't take it with me. No matter, they let us in, it's a special performance for us and a large German tour. Unfortunately, no one has told them that not everyone speaks German. The entire program is announced in German by an unseen speaker. However, most of our group has a working knowledge of Russian and recognizes the names of the songs.
One of our people still has no luggage although we are checking regularly. Our offers of clothes are rejected and he seems to have a fair amount in his carry on bag, and also has bought a Russian summer shirt, a sporty number of blue and orange stripes.
Before we turn in for the night, we discover that a member has been robbed. Wisely, he had separated his traveller's cheques and cash into two separate amounts, so only half his money is stolen.
After coming in from a walk he decided to have a nap and left his door open for a cross draft. As his room mate returned, he was met by two individuals coming out of the room, presumably the robbers. We spend a long evening with a plain clothes police investigator; before morning, two culprits are apprehended and identified as the miscreants. The loot, however, is not recovered.
The next day we travel to a Doukhobor co-operative farm called Kolkhoz Imeni Lenina. They are nearly all in traditional costume and greet us with singing and the presentation of bread, salt and water. A banquet follows with Doukhobor fare. There is borsch, lapsha, plove, peryhi plus salads and fruit. There is limonat, Pepsi, wine and vodka.
After that we all go to the large theatre, where our group introduces itself singly and there is an opportunity to possibly find relatives. Each speaker also provides their mother's maiden name. After this, there is a concert, with more snacks and drinks. A full afternoon. When we return to our hotel, there is still another dinner. Food in this region is plentiful and more fancy than in Moscow, although same of our people preferred the plainer food there.
The next morning we leave the hotel at 7:00 a.m. and are at the airport by 7:40. We are chased out of the restaurant and are not sold any tea or coffee because they do not open until 8:00; by then we are boarding.
It is a short flight to Tbilisi, an interesting looking city architecturally - perhaps an eastern Moorish influence, using many curves and arches, in contrast to the solid squares of Moscow.
We ride to the top of the mountain by funicular, a train track-cable car system that moves the cars up by cable, similar to our ski lifts but along the surface of the mountain rather than above. On top of the mountain, there are restaurants, parks, etc. with a spectacular view of the city. On the way we see a monastery half way up the mountain, presumably dating back to a time when the area was totally isolated.
We then visit the old fortress. On his way to exile in Siberia, Peter V. Verigin, the renowned Doukhobor leader, was temporarily held here. On the way back to the hotel we stop at a huge market, one of several in the city, which features every imaginable type of food and even ventures into providing dry goods.
After an exotic shiskabob dinner, we decide to ride the Metro, the deepest in the world, (deeper than Moscow). We take a walk through an expensive shopping area; much crystal and fancy glassware, furs, diamond and gold jewellery shops. Expensive fashions also abound. It is getting dark, and mindful of the gangs that we have been warned about, lurking the streets, we head home.
Nearby Armenia has voted against nuclear power for fear of earthquake damage, and most of the electrical power is supplied by Georgia. Georgia is a republic of vast variety, the only one in the Union that grows citrus fruits, tea and tobacco. We go an a trip to visit the old church, reputedly one of the first buildings in the area. Apparently one of the soldiers gambling for the shroud of Christ was a Georgian, and when he came back, a young girl touched it and died. Upon this spot, the church was built. The shroud is no longer there, probably taken away by the crusaders.
Back in the city, we visit the 'old town' area originally called Tiflis. There is a market area with a cathedral, souvenir shops etc. Remnants of the fortress date back to the fifth century, a reminder of the early history of the area.
In the hotel lobby among 'interesting things to do', the tour to nearby Gori, Stalin's birthplace, has been painted over, but is still legible under the paint. I ask our guide about this and she tells me one can go there but right now, the main house and tour of his birthplace is closed so there is little to see. She thinks it will be re-opened.
Most shops sell Georgian brandy as it is reputed to be excellent; the wine is supposed to be the best in the USSR.
In the hotel lobby among 'interesting things to do', the tour to nearby Gori, Stalin's birthplace, has been painted over, but is still legible under the paint. I ask our guide about this and she tells me one can go there but right now, the main house and tour of his birthplace is closed so there is little to see. She thinks it will be re-opened.
Most shops sell Georgian brandy as it is reputed to be excellent; the wine is supposed to be the best in the USSR.
We arrange to attend a concert of Georgian singers and dancers. The men are macho sprightly and demonstrate fearless leaps and even toe dancing, the women tall, graceful and restrained in movement, as though on roller skates. No equality here. While the women's movement is strong in Russia, Georgia is the land of macho men and exotic women, and they appear to be content with this arrangement.
However, because women do work and because the day care is nationally supported, it is an extensive program available to all who need it. When there is overcrowding, a new centre is simply built. When a child is imminent, the mother receives eighteen months paid leave. She can then take another eighteen months unpaid. Her job is guaranteed and she can return to it at that time.
Children then continue in day care until the age of six. They are not taught to read and write but take art, music, swimming lessons etc. The teachers say that they should play and enjoy their childhood. There is no punishment and they are talked to and exposed to peer pressure in order to learn to behave in a caring fashion.
The centres are equipped with swimming pools, outdoor playgrounds, and computers. One tourist remarked that the children did not know how to operate the computer with the suggestion that this was probably put an for show. The point was that the computers are treated as toys, and at this time the children simply play with them and familiarize themselves with how they work, drawing pictures etc. Cost of day care is 47 rubles per child, parents may pay up to 15 rubles of that, depending an their salary.
However, because women do work and because the day care is nationally supported, it is an extensive program available to all who need it. When there is overcrowding, a new centre is simply built. When a child is imminent, the mother receives eighteen months paid leave. She can then take another eighteen months unpaid. Her job is guaranteed and she can return to it at that time.
Children then continue in day care until the age of six. They are not taught to read and write but take art, music, swimming lessons etc. The teachers say that they should play and enjoy their childhood. There is no punishment and they are talked to and exposed to peer pressure in order to learn to behave in a caring fashion.
The centres are equipped with swimming pools, outdoor playgrounds, and computers. One tourist remarked that the children did not know how to operate the computer with the suggestion that this was probably put an for show. The point was that the computers are treated as toys, and at this time the children simply play with them and familiarize themselves with how they work, drawing pictures etc. Cost of day care is 47 rubles per child, parents may pay up to 15 rubles of that, depending an their salary.
One of our fellow travellers, Max, has a knack for discovering the nearest workers’ pub, and I accompany him for a beer, 60 kopecks for a litre instead of two American dollars for a can. The beer is superior and about 12% alcohol. I have the chance to return the favour, and on an appointment with Vladimir Verigin, (perhaps a distant relative), I take him along.
Vladimir is a co-op entrepreneur, and his business is running a video salon. He rents the salon space, an old theatre, from the government. lt is a large space that may hold up to a hundred people who each pay 2 rubles, 40 kopecks for entrance. In this case the video is an American gangster film. Shows begin at 1:00 p.m. and continue every two hours, the last show is at 9:00. The video is of atrocious quality. The translation is done by one person over the original soundtrack which can be heard in the background. It is also a bad film. The salon employs eleven people who are paid 300 rubles a month, five days on, (long days), five off. They are a happy staff. After this tour, Vladimir takes us to an outdoor café and, along with a friend, treats us to a banquet. A very pleasant afternoon.
Vladimir is a co-op entrepreneur, and his business is running a video salon. He rents the salon space, an old theatre, from the government. lt is a large space that may hold up to a hundred people who each pay 2 rubles, 40 kopecks for entrance. In this case the video is an American gangster film. Shows begin at 1:00 p.m. and continue every two hours, the last show is at 9:00. The video is of atrocious quality. The translation is done by one person over the original soundtrack which can be heard in the background. It is also a bad film. The salon employs eleven people who are paid 300 rubles a month, five days on, (long days), five off. They are a happy staff. After this tour, Vladimir takes us to an outdoor café and, along with a friend, treats us to a banquet. A very pleasant afternoon.
Our bus driver is fearless, and steers the 45 passenger bus with a verve usually reserved for Kamikaze pilots. If he discovers that he is on the wrong side of the street, he simply pulls a U-turn in the middle of four lane traffic, then carries on through tiny alleys where he literally has less than a foot to spare on the turns.
This is truly a land of plenty, and there are no shortages here. Grape vines grow beside apartment buildings and then are tied to balconies as high as four stories up.
Food here is salty and spicy and some people develop stomach problems. The weather is hot and dry and everyone becomes dehydrated and drinks a lot of mineral water (still not trusting local water). The result of this is that some people, especially women, develop swollen feet from the salt content.
During this time, I and my fellow leader are becoming concerned. While we had formulated this trip on the concept of visiting original Doukhobor villages, we had never received official permission to do so. Now, it is not forthcoming (aside from our visit to Lenina, a later settlement).
We are near the Doukhobor village area; however, the entire project is complicated by the fact that one of the areas has recently been devastated by earthquakes, the other has bad riots with the Azerbaidzhans and Armenians. These are sensitive areas, and there is only one main military road into there. On previous attempts to visit the original settlements, people were told that perhaps relatives could come in to Tbilisi to visit, no one was allowed into the villages. Someone suggested that it was because of the bad roads and the government did not want us to see them, others said that robbers and hijackers roamed the area and the Soviet government did not want to jeopardize foreign nationals.
Our bus driver is fearless, and steers the 45 passenger bus with a verve usually reserved for Kamikaze pilots. If he discovers that he is on the wrong side of the street, he simply pulls a U-turn in the middle of four lane traffic, then carries on through tiny alleys where he literally has less than a foot to spare on the turns.
This is truly a land of plenty, and there are no shortages here. Grape vines grow beside apartment buildings and then are tied to balconies as high as four stories up.
Food here is salty and spicy and some people develop stomach problems. The weather is hot and dry and everyone becomes dehydrated and drinks a lot of mineral water (still not trusting local water). The result of this is that some people, especially women, develop swollen feet from the salt content.
During this time, I and my fellow leader are becoming concerned. While we had formulated this trip on the concept of visiting original Doukhobor villages, we had never received official permission to do so. Now, it is not forthcoming (aside from our visit to Lenina, a later settlement).
We are near the Doukhobor village area; however, the entire project is complicated by the fact that one of the areas has recently been devastated by earthquakes, the other has bad riots with the Azerbaidzhans and Armenians. These are sensitive areas, and there is only one main military road into there. On previous attempts to visit the original settlements, people were told that perhaps relatives could come in to Tbilisi to visit, no one was allowed into the villages. Someone suggested that it was because of the bad roads and the government did not want us to see them, others said that robbers and hijackers roamed the area and the Soviet government did not want to jeopardize foreign nationals.
In any case, despite repeated attempts, telegrams, phone calls, our pleas are to no avail. The head of our hotel, a powerful local politician, becomes involved, as does Vasili Chutskoff, a local Doukhobor and Doukhobor expert. (In shifts, he and his wife had our entire group of 42 over for dinner. A highlight of this were his home made pickles, a secret added ingredient being Italian parsley.) We had counted heavily on Obshestva Rodina to help us, now we cannot even contact them by phone, and when we do, we soon become disconnected.
One morning, two figures dressed in black appeared. They were Doukhobors from a nearby village of Deminisi, and had heard of our arrival. They offered to take three of our members back with them for a visit, and this was unofficially arranged, an overnight stay.
By this time, we are also exploring the possibility of renting a bus separate from Intourist (who would not go without permission) and simply taking our chances. It is possible that we would be sent back; perhaps we would be attacked by pirates. Over half of the people decide they will go. After all, the authorities did not say; 'Do not go.' They simply did not say that we could go. At the proverbial last minute, permission is granted, and we prepare to leave early in the morning.
In any case, despite repeated attempts, telegrams, phone calls, our pleas are to no avail. The head of our hotel, a powerful local politician, becomes involved, as does Vasili Chutskoff, a local Doukhobor and Doukhobor expert. (In shifts, he and his wife had our entire group of 42 over for dinner. A highlight of this were his home made pickles, a secret added ingredient being Italian parsley.) We had counted heavily on Obshestva Rodina to help us, now we cannot even contact them by phone, and when we do, we soon become disconnected.
One morning, two figures dressed in black appeared. They were Doukhobors from a nearby village of Deminisi, and had heard of our arrival. They offered to take three of our members back with them for a visit, and this was unofficially arranged, an overnight stay.
By this time, we are also exploring the possibility of renting a bus separate from Intourist (who would not go without permission) and simply taking our chances. It is possible that we would be sent back; perhaps we would be attacked by pirates. Over half of the people decide they will go. After all, the authorities did not say; 'Do not go.' They simply did not say that we could go. At the proverbial last minute, permission is granted, and we prepare to leave early in the morning.
The trip to Bagdanovka is by old military road. The ground appears to be hard and unyielding. For miles, both sides of the road are covered with large stones strewn about as though some giant was out tossing pebbles or sowing giant peas at random.
The country side becomes a bit like Southern California or Kamloops area when we decide to stop for a large picnic lunch (several boxes of cucumbers, tomatoes, meat, three different kinds of bread, cheese and fruit). This unlikely stop by the road also doubles as a rest room stop as various people hike off into the hills for an extremely natural nature call (more so for some than others).
In the distance, cattle which seem to have mastered the art of grazing on near non-existent grass at a 45 degree angle can be seen. I decide that they are merely oppressed under the Communist regime.
As we press on through a check point we begin picking up escorts, and by the time we are within a few miles of the village, our bus is accompanied by a flashing light police car in front, a black official looking limousine behind, and several military jeeps as outriders. This strikes me as slightly ridiculous as we encounter very little traffic: the odd truck, a couple of herds of cows or sheep that impede us only slightly. However, I take this as a sign of hospitality and care on their part.
The country side becomes a bit like Southern California or Kamloops area when we decide to stop for a large picnic lunch (several boxes of cucumbers, tomatoes, meat, three different kinds of bread, cheese and fruit). This unlikely stop by the road also doubles as a rest room stop as various people hike off into the hills for an extremely natural nature call (more so for some than others).
In the distance, cattle which seem to have mastered the art of grazing on near non-existent grass at a 45 degree angle can be seen. I decide that they are merely oppressed under the Communist regime.
As we press on through a check point we begin picking up escorts, and by the time we are within a few miles of the village, our bus is accompanied by a flashing light police car in front, a black official looking limousine behind, and several military jeeps as outriders. This strikes me as slightly ridiculous as we encounter very little traffic: the odd truck, a couple of herds of cows or sheep that impede us only slightly. However, I take this as a sign of hospitality and care on their part.
When we reach the village, several hundred Doukhobors have amassed in costume, and we are greeted with dancing. As we emerge from the bus this turns into singing. Then we are asked into the communal meeting house for official greetings and a mutual expression of kindest regards.
We proceed to have a tour of Lukeria Kalmakova's house, a famous and successful Doukhobor leader affectionately known as Lushichka. As part of the museum complex, there is also the Sirotski Dom, the Orphans' Home, plus another cottage. After this, we adjourn to a banquet.
Then we depart for another highlight: the actual arms burning site where the Doukhobors renounced militarism in 1895 by burning all of their weapons. Here is also a meditation cave that Lushichka retreated to and a carved stone commemoration of the event, as well as a memorial plaque presented by Canadian Doukhobors.
From there, we travel to the burial monuments of the previous leaders including Lushechka and her husband and leaders of the group of Doukhobors that did not emigrate to Canada.
From there, we travel to the burial monuments of the previous leaders including Lushechka and her husband and leaders of the group of Doukhobors that did not emigrate to Canada.
We return to our hotel relieved, exhilarated and tired, ready for the next day.
This trip also leaves early in the morning, part way along this same road, then off into another direction. Here we are into the Azerbaijan area, we cross the Armenian border and come out. There are many goats, donkeys and some sheep. The territory here is not quite as foreboding as the previous day. The hills are undulating and sensual, a bit like the foothills of Alberta. This is far from prime agricultural land but seems more inviting. The lower areas seem quite arable and here cattle, potatoes and grain are raised.
This area contains the important Doukhobor village of Slavanka, birth place of Peter V. Verigin, and original birth place of many Doukhobors who emigrated to Canada. There are geese everywhere and there is irrigation. Along the many roads, there are irrigation canals or irrigation pipes. Eventually, there will be piped water to dry areas that can be tapped as needed. This system seems to extend for hundreds of miles.
Slavanka, once one of the main villages of the Doukhobors, has a rapidly declining Doukhobor population. The Azerbaijan Moslems are outnumbering the Armenian Christians; the Doukhobors are even a smaller group.
Much of the youth moves to the cities. They are the bright go-getters, and this is a severe drain on the manpower of the area. Once they are established in the cities, their parents follow them. Our head man of the collective is part Armenian and part Doukhobor. At a banquet (can one ever get tired of such hospitality?) our entertainment is an Azerbaijan Moslem troubadour.
This strikes our traditional Doukhobors as peculiar; however, I enjoy their music. Some of our tour goers are armed with a smug American conceit of superiority that interferes with their appreciation of local customs and accomplishments. After losing one of our members temporarily to a local family who wanted to entertain him (yes, Max) we eventually depart for a long journey home, accompanied by many good-byes and a hail storm.
Flight to Crimea, Russia’s most famous resort area, the historic republic ceded to Catherine the Great in 1793, after the defeat of the Ottoman Empire. Short flight, but the airport is well out of town so we have a scenic bus trip into town. Yalta is incredibly beautiful, hilly and temperate, best known for the signing of the pact between Roosevelt, Stalin and Churchill in 1945, and later the United Nations charter. Both events took place in the summer palace of Nicholas and Alexandra, built in 1911, visited only once by them in 1914. lt is adorned with a sleeping lion in the front (Nicholas) and angelic sleeping women (Alexandra and daughters?) above the entrance doors. As though that was not enough of a portent, a horseshoe above the door we exit points downwards. Could lt stand for Rasputin?
Yalta is perhaps the best known if not the best resort in the Soviet Union, and the atmosphere is permeated with buxom bathing suits, jingling casino machines and clinking glasses. Down to the boat ride or the beach, topless tanning does not attract any attention, except perhaps from the deprived (depraved?). Pigeons walk along the balcony of our hotel room, anti inside the huge dining room, (ceiling of 50 meters,) a sparrow flies around, and occasionally lands at a nearby table. How do you get them out?
One lady reports all travellers cheques stolen, and the lost luggage has still not caught up with us. lt seems impossible to phone in the American Express numbers to North America. My tooth is chipped and I have to find a dental clinic on Saturday. I do, and my cab driver, who is actually a wine merchant (his car trunk will testify to that) offers to sell me the finest champagne or wine (far better than in stores, 16 medals) for six American dollars. When available in the stores, it costs 50 rubles, the equivalent of $100.00.
Yalta is exhausting and we have a nice rest on a long bus trip to Zaporozhye. We pass through Melitopal, near the site of the Milky Waters, one of the original settlements of the Doukhobors.
In this middle sized town there is a large square opposite the hotel, and it is our luck to arrive on the week-end. The square is full of people of all ages, children riding little wagons (similar to the paddle boats that children rent at resorts), artists, jugglers, food sellers, some hawkers. One of our leaders has an elaborate portrait done that takes two hours and costs quite a few rubles. The water fountains are illuminated, and later on, there are fire works.
In the morning, as I am preparing to report the missing travellers cheques to the Service Bureau, our victim arrives, to announce that she had put them away carefully in her make up case for safe keeping, discovering them in the morning. At this time, we also arrange for a mini-bus to go to the Milky Waters area. There are no Doukhobors there any more except one, and she is very hospitable and presents the visitors with a lunch and a tour.
Zaporozhye is a city with much to offer. Some of us arrange to have a massage from a private masseur. About three other people come along and one of them mentions that this apartment is very small. My response is that it is larger than any apartment I have ever lived in in Canada.
Our host, eager to demonstrate his colour television, turns it on and there is no program playing. Disparagingly, he comments that here, even the TV has a rest in the afternoon. My remark is that had he seen what we have on afternoon TV, he would be eternally grateful.
Yalta is exhausting and we have a nice rest on a long bus trip to Zaporozhye. We pass through Melitopal, near the site of the Milky Waters, one of the original settlements of the Doukhobors.
In this middle sized town there is a large square opposite the hotel, and it is our luck to arrive on the week-end. The square is full of people of all ages, children riding little wagons (similar to the paddle boats that children rent at resorts), artists, jugglers, food sellers, some hawkers. One of our leaders has an elaborate portrait done that takes two hours and costs quite a few rubles. The water fountains are illuminated, and later on, there are fire works.
In the morning, as I am preparing to report the missing travellers cheques to the Service Bureau, our victim arrives, to announce that she had put them away carefully in her make up case for safe keeping, discovering them in the morning. At this time, we also arrange for a mini-bus to go to the Milky Waters area. There are no Doukhobors there any more except one, and she is very hospitable and presents the visitors with a lunch and a tour.
Zaporozhye is a city with much to offer. Some of us arrange to have a massage from a private masseur. About three other people come along and one of them mentions that this apartment is very small. My response is that it is larger than any apartment I have ever lived in in Canada.
Our host, eager to demonstrate his colour television, turns it on and there is no program playing. Disparagingly, he comments that here, even the TV has a rest in the afternoon. My remark is that had he seen what we have on afternoon TV, he would be eternally grateful.
We are invited to a reception by the Ukraine Friendship Society. There are same welcoming speeches, followed by a concert presented by a trio of highly trained musicians.
One of our tours includes a visit to a Pioneer camp. For 28 days during the summer, children of parents of this particular factory, visit in the camp. This may also be the time that the parents are on a separate vacation. If not, they can visit here on week-ends.
The parents normally enjoy three er four months holiday, so they can visit here as well as have a separate holiday. In this case, there are 420 children and a staff of 90, including cooks, swimming instructors, music teachers etc. At the end of the tour, the children present us with an impromptu but polished concert. Their performance includes dramatic recitation and dance as well as singing.
The camp consists of 90 hectares, ample room for swimming pool, soccer pitch and activities range. Children of different ages participate in different activities.
In this particular camp, children from parents who had to be resettled after the Chernobyl disaster are spending the summer at the expense of the state.
As in most cities, there is a huge, delightful department store, and I buy most of my souvenirs in stores such as this instead of the Kashtan, American currency store. Here I buy two of the exclusive Paul McCartney records for 8 rubles, about $16.00.
We are invited to a reception by the Ukraine Friendship Society. There are same welcoming speeches, followed by a concert presented by a trio of highly trained musicians.
One of our tours includes a visit to a Pioneer camp. For 28 days during the summer, children of parents of this particular factory, visit in the camp. This may also be the time that the parents are on a separate vacation. If not, they can visit here on week-ends.
The parents normally enjoy three er four months holiday, so they can visit here as well as have a separate holiday. In this case, there are 420 children and a staff of 90, including cooks, swimming instructors, music teachers etc. At the end of the tour, the children present us with an impromptu but polished concert. Their performance includes dramatic recitation and dance as well as singing.
The camp consists of 90 hectares, ample room for swimming pool, soccer pitch and activities range. Children of different ages participate in different activities.
In this particular camp, children from parents who had to be resettled after the Chernobyl disaster are spending the summer at the expense of the state.
As in most cities, there is a huge, delightful department store, and I buy most of my souvenirs in stores such as this instead of the Kashtan, American currency store. Here I buy two of the exclusive Paul McCartney records for 8 rubles, about $16.00.
On the day that we were to embark for Kiev, I decide to go for a walk instead of a tour to the sanatorium. I notice a sign with photographs that indicate a repertory theatre. Since I have worked in the theatre many years, I am interested.
I walk in and start talking to the receptionist, meet the stage manager and then the manager and director. We have a long meeting, and it is agreed that we will try to work out an exchange of directors with a Canadian theatre.
The actors are civic employees and make about 300 rubles a month. They have about two months holidays and were just winding up their season. Rehearsal is about two months for a new play to enter the rep.
That afternoon, we leave for Kiev. Among other comments about Zaporozhye is that the food was the best here.
On the day that we were to embark for Kiev, I decide to go for a walk instead of a tour to the sanatorium. I notice a sign with photographs that indicate a repertory theatre. Since I have worked in the theatre many years, I am interested.
I walk in and start talking to the receptionist, meet the stage manager and then the manager and director. We have a long meeting, and it is agreed that we will try to work out an exchange of directors with a Canadian theatre.
The actors are civic employees and make about 300 rubles a month. They have about two months holidays and were just winding up their season. Rehearsal is about two months for a new play to enter the rep.
That afternoon, we leave for Kiev. Among other comments about Zaporozhye is that the food was the best here.
On the plane to Kiev, magazines and newspapers are handed out as well as puzzle games for children.
Kiev is a beautiful city, full of historical buildings and cathedrals. The city is still reeling from the mass celebration of the 1000 anniversary of Christianity in the Ukraine which was commemorated in 1988.
With three days to go before the trip is over, the lost luggage appears.
On the outskirts of the city, we have a farewell party, which includes much eating, music and dancing. The singing continues an the bus as we return to the hotel.
On the plane to Kiev, magazines and newspapers are handed out as well as puzzle games for children.
Kiev is a beautiful city, full of historical buildings and cathedrals. The city is still reeling from the mass celebration of the 1000 anniversary of Christianity in the Ukraine which was commemorated in 1988.
With three days to go before the trip is over, the lost luggage appears.
On the outskirts of the city, we have a farewell party, which includes much eating, music and dancing. The singing continues an the bus as we return to the hotel.
A hot and humid stop in Paris. We do the city tour, and have dinner downtown, then back to the airport hotel for departure the next day. Costs are incredibly high here compared to the USSR, and most people are glad we are not staying longer. Our modest hotel room is posted at 428 francs, about $100. The Metro trip back is equivalent to $5.00 instead of 5 kopecks. The entire City is preparing for the anniversary of the revolution.
* * * Back to Toronto * * *
OUR SEARCH FOR TOLSTOY
Our documentary will attempt to answer this question by concentrating on his spiritual quest [not his domestic strife.]
[3] By combining the above two aspects into a single unified purpose and technique, I believe that we can attract a new [though jaded] audience for the much needed aspects of his philosophical content which we consider timely and important. We must be constantly aware that we are competing for the audience with a subject that some people consider boring [religion & spirit]; the well-read thinking members of our audience have most likely made up their minds on the subject and are not always receptive to new ideas, the casual viewer [ignoramus] is not interested in such themes.
However, all of these factors present important sources as potential viewers, our audience, and so we must break down their resistance and succeed in getting their attention.
We must also feel free to present a work on an elevated plane so the sophisticated and erudite audience will enjoy viewing such a work. I am referring to professors, teachers of religion and philosophy, philosophers and students of all of these subjects and other aspects of human nature - after all, we are dealing with a universal theme which is important to everyone - what we must discover is how to unlock the potential viewer's curiosity so we can present these universal ideas which are common to all humanity.
➵➶➵➺
☹ THE PLAYERS ☺
LARRY A. EWASHEN - Writer and on-site Location Manager, Assistant Editor.
Mr. Ewashen has spent all of his life as a worker in films and the theatre. [See attached resume.] Currently he lives in Canada and Russia. He is familiar with Russian film workers and artists as well as most of the interview subjects; his knowledge of Russian and the subjects will make work go smoothly and quickly.
Narrator - We need a specific well known personality noted for his humanitarian work as well as his dramatic roles and his documentary productions, including one filmed at Yasnaya Polyana, Estate Museum of Leo Tolstoy. He should have roots in Russia as well as England and North America and work with UNESCO. Such a person would be sympathetic to the aims of our film. He will only be required for a short time at the end of the editing process which gives us lots of time to schedule his work. He should not appear on camera as his personality will tend to dominate and people will be remembering his other appearances and his other documentaries instead of paying attention to our present work. Also, if it should turn out that his fee is far in excess of ACTRA scale, or is taking up a disproportionate amount of the budget, he is dispensable. The writer is an experienced narrator and knows many other performers capable of doing this task. In any case, the role of narrator here is a minimum part. His presence could possibly help market the film.
For foreign versions, i.e. Japan and India, a brief on screen appearance could be beneficial.
Senior Guide - On Site Assistant, fluently bi-lingual, she is familiar with all of the interview subjects and will be able to explain to them in simple terms, what our questions are and what level of expertise we are expecting from them. She is also a capable on-camera interviewer as well as Tolstoyan expert in her own right, particularly in reference to Tolstoy's correspondence, contacts and influences with American philosophers and writers such as Sinclair, Ballou and Whitman, Thoreau and Emerson. This relationship should be brought in to contemporize the film for our North American audience.
RUSSIAN CREW - I recommend that we shoot our material on Hi 8 because currently this is the most economical way to go. It will also provide immediate results in case we have to re-shoot. [Beta-Cam is another possibility and we should note that a used Beta-Cam is now available for $2,000]. It would be good to have one available so someone could always be doing 'adventure' shots, [background, fill, scenery etc.] I also have a suitable Sony Hi-8 which could be used for such material. In Russia we can work quickly and economically with one camera man and a lighting and sound assistant of his choosing [one assistant] - I have two such a potential people in mind. Transport with a several person van and driver can be hired from Yasnaya Polyana at an economical rate. There should be a budget for an honorarium for our interviewees and some assistance fees for such people as the Director of Yasnaya Polyana, and other helpful people such as the Director of the Tolstoy Museum in Moscow, the Head of the Tolstoy colony, certain villagers as required etc. I also feel that provision should be made for one general assistant, a colleague of mine, who will work as a continuity and scheduling assistant day to day. A fee will probably not be necessary but transportation and living expenses should be provided.
OTHER COSTS - The actor who will play Tolstoy, archival footage in Russia and North America, editing room and facilities [computer], usual budget for on and off line, titles etc., publicity budget for release etc. [I like to work with digital print out on VHS for the rough edit.] Russian première can be arranged for Yasnaya Polyana etc. An important international launch should take place to insure the success of the film in North America and Russia, prior to release in other languages.
We must see what archival footage is available in Russia as well as in North America, I do not know what these costs will be. [It is worth noting that since the previous films have been made, computer enhancement is now possible, and if costs are not exorbitant, we should employ this for our archival film and photographic shots. It is possible that we will come up with clean, crisp archival footage as has never been seen before. This in itself will make our film valuable and desirable, particularly for universities, museums and educational television.]
In addition, there will be costs associated with translating the final sound track from Russian to English and then having appropriate actors do the voice-overs. The reverse will have to be done for the film in Russian, and any other language we may decide to release it in. India is a possibility for a release because of Tolstoy's association with Gandhi [there is a statue of Tolstoy in Delhi] and we may wish to work in Gandhi's use of non-violent resistance, as well as some possible footage of Martin Luther King, both showing the effect of non-violent pacifism as an instrument of social growth and change. Use of this footage may make our film more contemporary and relevant and may make it appeal to a more international market: India, Germany, Italy and Japan are likely markets.
☺
THE INTERVIEWEES
The success of the film will depend on the success of the following interviewees and how we present them. These are the leading world authorities on the subject and we must elicit the appropriate responses from them which we will then use to construct the film. Each interview should probably last for an hour or two to cover not only our questions but to allow them to speak on their particular field of expertise, this relaxes them and allows them to speak with confidence. However, we should be aware that it may take a day or more to successfully complete the required interviews with each subject. The idea of having Tolstoy appear may or may not work [shot in black and white] but is worth a try and there is more than one famous actor in Russia known for this portrayal. [This is also an unknown cost.] This list is not complete, in addition there are several English and North American experts which we can call on to fill certain gaps if there are any, archival footage will be used depending on its availability and suitability for certain scenes. The presence of certain well known scholars could help market the film in their respective countries, i.e. British Isles and Canada and U.S.
Right now I am looking for some world known non-religious figure who could comment on the spiritual and philosophical content of the writings, a name possibly recognizable but not in a religious context so much as a moral, civilized context, someone on the level of Carl Sagan. [I was sorry to hear of his death shortly after I wrote this.] There is a possibility of someone like Canadian David Suzuki, famous environmentalist and humanitarian, but I don't know if he has read any of the Tolstoyan spiritual content, although his lectures and personal life suggest that he may have. It should be a readily recognizable world figure who could adequately comment on the timeliness and necessity of Tolstoy's moral philosophy. If we do not come up with such a universally acclaimed commentator, we will put in our own comments through the narrator against appropriate background.
Professor from Moscow University - A charming senior expert of many years standing and a Professor on Tolstoy, Chief Editor of the republication of the complete works of Lev Tolstoy, the first such project since the publication of the first 90 volume complete works edited by Vladimir Chertkov, also the Head of Russian Classic Literature of the Russian Academy of Sciences.
Director of Tolstoy Museum, Moscow - Professor and expert on Leo Tolstoy, former Director of Yasnaya Polyana, he now is Head of several Tolstoyan schools and lectures on the spiritual and philosophical content of Tolstoy's writings, currently on lecture tour in Japan.
Petersburg University - Foremost expert and Professor of the Russian Academy of Sciences in St. Petersburg.
Tolstoy descendants - Great-great grandson of Tolstoy and others.
Senior Librarian at Yasnaya Polyana - A senior worker would be good for touring the estate and specific rooms etc.
Music - Music is important in this film, and I would prefer to use the Yasnaya Polyana folk choral group [a record exists of them and they were one of his favourite groups], Lev Tolstoy's own compositions, and those of Sergei, his son who was a composer. All of these will have to be recorded professionally on VHS tape suitable for editing. If possible, this recording should be made on the Tolstoy piano. In addition, we should use Tolstoy's favourite music, e.g. Chopin. Local music should be used for specific scenes, for example, use of a segment of THE DON COSSACK CHOIR [Georgian music] for a segment dealing with the Caucasus, a fragment of Tchaikovsky for a period underlying WAR AND PEACE etc. A budget consideration should also be made for sound effects, most of them will be available in a sound library. Budget consideration should also be provided for a translation of this script for the Russian crew members and other participants. Depending on the length of our final product, the sum of $1,000. should be adequate for this.
[3] By combining the above two aspects into a single unified purpose and technique, I believe that we can attract a new [though jaded] audience for the much needed aspects of his philosophical content which we consider timely and important. We must be constantly aware that we are competing for the audience with a subject that some people consider boring [religion & spirit]; the well-read thinking members of our audience have most likely made up their minds on the subject and are not always receptive to new ideas, the casual viewer [ignoramus] is not interested in such themes.
However, all of these factors present important sources as potential viewers, our audience, and so we must break down their resistance and succeed in getting their attention.
We must also feel free to present a work on an elevated plane so the sophisticated and erudite audience will enjoy viewing such a work. I am referring to professors, teachers of religion and philosophy, philosophers and students of all of these subjects and other aspects of human nature - after all, we are dealing with a universal theme which is important to everyone - what we must discover is how to unlock the potential viewer's curiosity so we can present these universal ideas which are common to all humanity.
➵➶➵➺
☹ THE PLAYERS ☺
LARRY A. EWASHEN - Writer and on-site Location Manager, Assistant Editor.
Mr. Ewashen has spent all of his life as a worker in films and the theatre. [See attached resume.] Currently he lives in Canada and Russia. He is familiar with Russian film workers and artists as well as most of the interview subjects; his knowledge of Russian and the subjects will make work go smoothly and quickly.
Narrator - We need a specific well known personality noted for his humanitarian work as well as his dramatic roles and his documentary productions, including one filmed at Yasnaya Polyana, Estate Museum of Leo Tolstoy. He should have roots in Russia as well as England and North America and work with UNESCO. Such a person would be sympathetic to the aims of our film. He will only be required for a short time at the end of the editing process which gives us lots of time to schedule his work. He should not appear on camera as his personality will tend to dominate and people will be remembering his other appearances and his other documentaries instead of paying attention to our present work. Also, if it should turn out that his fee is far in excess of ACTRA scale, or is taking up a disproportionate amount of the budget, he is dispensable. The writer is an experienced narrator and knows many other performers capable of doing this task. In any case, the role of narrator here is a minimum part. His presence could possibly help market the film.
For foreign versions, i.e. Japan and India, a brief on screen appearance could be beneficial.
Senior Guide - On Site Assistant, fluently bi-lingual, she is familiar with all of the interview subjects and will be able to explain to them in simple terms, what our questions are and what level of expertise we are expecting from them. She is also a capable on-camera interviewer as well as Tolstoyan expert in her own right, particularly in reference to Tolstoy's correspondence, contacts and influences with American philosophers and writers such as Sinclair, Ballou and Whitman, Thoreau and Emerson. This relationship should be brought in to contemporize the film for our North American audience.
RUSSIAN CREW - I recommend that we shoot our material on Hi 8 because currently this is the most economical way to go. It will also provide immediate results in case we have to re-shoot. [Beta-Cam is another possibility and we should note that a used Beta-Cam is now available for $2,000]. It would be good to have one available so someone could always be doing 'adventure' shots, [background, fill, scenery etc.] I also have a suitable Sony Hi-8 which could be used for such material. In Russia we can work quickly and economically with one camera man and a lighting and sound assistant of his choosing [one assistant] - I have two such a potential people in mind. Transport with a several person van and driver can be hired from Yasnaya Polyana at an economical rate. There should be a budget for an honorarium for our interviewees and some assistance fees for such people as the Director of Yasnaya Polyana, and other helpful people such as the Director of the Tolstoy Museum in Moscow, the Head of the Tolstoy colony, certain villagers as required etc. I also feel that provision should be made for one general assistant, a colleague of mine, who will work as a continuity and scheduling assistant day to day. A fee will probably not be necessary but transportation and living expenses should be provided.
OTHER COSTS - The actor who will play Tolstoy, archival footage in Russia and North America, editing room and facilities [computer], usual budget for on and off line, titles etc., publicity budget for release etc. [I like to work with digital print out on VHS for the rough edit.] Russian première can be arranged for Yasnaya Polyana etc. An important international launch should take place to insure the success of the film in North America and Russia, prior to release in other languages.
We must see what archival footage is available in Russia as well as in North America, I do not know what these costs will be. [It is worth noting that since the previous films have been made, computer enhancement is now possible, and if costs are not exorbitant, we should employ this for our archival film and photographic shots. It is possible that we will come up with clean, crisp archival footage as has never been seen before. This in itself will make our film valuable and desirable, particularly for universities, museums and educational television.]
In addition, there will be costs associated with translating the final sound track from Russian to English and then having appropriate actors do the voice-overs. The reverse will have to be done for the film in Russian, and any other language we may decide to release it in. India is a possibility for a release because of Tolstoy's association with Gandhi [there is a statue of Tolstoy in Delhi] and we may wish to work in Gandhi's use of non-violent resistance, as well as some possible footage of Martin Luther King, both showing the effect of non-violent pacifism as an instrument of social growth and change. Use of this footage may make our film more contemporary and relevant and may make it appeal to a more international market: India, Germany, Italy and Japan are likely markets.
☺
THE INTERVIEWEES
The success of the film will depend on the success of the following interviewees and how we present them. These are the leading world authorities on the subject and we must elicit the appropriate responses from them which we will then use to construct the film. Each interview should probably last for an hour or two to cover not only our questions but to allow them to speak on their particular field of expertise, this relaxes them and allows them to speak with confidence. However, we should be aware that it may take a day or more to successfully complete the required interviews with each subject. The idea of having Tolstoy appear may or may not work [shot in black and white] but is worth a try and there is more than one famous actor in Russia known for this portrayal. [This is also an unknown cost.] This list is not complete, in addition there are several English and North American experts which we can call on to fill certain gaps if there are any, archival footage will be used depending on its availability and suitability for certain scenes. The presence of certain well known scholars could help market the film in their respective countries, i.e. British Isles and Canada and U.S.
Right now I am looking for some world known non-religious figure who could comment on the spiritual and philosophical content of the writings, a name possibly recognizable but not in a religious context so much as a moral, civilized context, someone on the level of Carl Sagan. [I was sorry to hear of his death shortly after I wrote this.] There is a possibility of someone like Canadian David Suzuki, famous environmentalist and humanitarian, but I don't know if he has read any of the Tolstoyan spiritual content, although his lectures and personal life suggest that he may have. It should be a readily recognizable world figure who could adequately comment on the timeliness and necessity of Tolstoy's moral philosophy. If we do not come up with such a universally acclaimed commentator, we will put in our own comments through the narrator against appropriate background.
Professor from Moscow University - A charming senior expert of many years standing and a Professor on Tolstoy, Chief Editor of the republication of the complete works of Lev Tolstoy, the first such project since the publication of the first 90 volume complete works edited by Vladimir Chertkov, also the Head of Russian Classic Literature of the Russian Academy of Sciences.
Director of Tolstoy Museum, Moscow - Professor and expert on Leo Tolstoy, former Director of Yasnaya Polyana, he now is Head of several Tolstoyan schools and lectures on the spiritual and philosophical content of Tolstoy's writings, currently on lecture tour in Japan.
Petersburg University - Foremost expert and Professor of the Russian Academy of Sciences in St. Petersburg.
Tolstoy descendants - Great-great grandson of Tolstoy and others.
Senior Librarian at Yasnaya Polyana - A senior worker would be good for touring the estate and specific rooms etc.
Music - Music is important in this film, and I would prefer to use the Yasnaya Polyana folk choral group [a record exists of them and they were one of his favourite groups], Lev Tolstoy's own compositions, and those of Sergei, his son who was a composer. All of these will have to be recorded professionally on VHS tape suitable for editing. If possible, this recording should be made on the Tolstoy piano. In addition, we should use Tolstoy's favourite music, e.g. Chopin. Local music should be used for specific scenes, for example, use of a segment of THE DON COSSACK CHOIR [Georgian music] for a segment dealing with the Caucasus, a fragment of Tchaikovsky for a period underlying WAR AND PEACE etc. A budget consideration should also be made for sound effects, most of them will be available in a sound library. Budget consideration should also be provided for a translation of this script for the Russian crew members and other participants. Depending on the length of our final product, the sum of $1,000. should be adequate for this.
☼
GENERAL CONCEPT AND THEME OF SCRIPT
In the following treatment, I will provide the general scenes but not always the specific shots, for example; an interview shot must contain 'opposite' views [interviewer and interviewee], background, general location etc. and these accessory details must match the mood and tempo of the general interview. This is crucial to the pacing of the final product, and another reason why one cannot always predict the final order of the outcome. In certain places I will provide some rudimentary dialogue which is flexible for the most part and can be changed or improvised. The questions can be added to and are meant as a beginning - a lot of the archival footage will be put in when we see exactly what we have. All of the speeches presented are subject to edit as well as the narrator lines which are flexible.
The general theme is the idea of one day, from sunrise to sunset, also the seasons, spring time to fall, and thus, the man's life from birth to death.
The 'feeling' of the film should be one of curiosity and adventure. If we can impart this feeling, our viewers will share this and absorb what we have to offer - this must be entertaining - but it is entertainment on a high level.
To a certain extent, the following treatment is a framework which will provide an opportunity for the producer to add in certain concerns etc. as they sees fit and important.
As Tolstoy himself said: 'The hero of my stories is truth.' As much as possible, I want to rely on his own writings for the body of the film, that way we cannot be criticized for presenting a particular point of view. As for his religious and philosophical viewpoints, they have not been stressed to such an extent before, and as discussed, this is our purpose here. To some extent, and due to the timeliness of these viewpoints, we will justify many of his sayings, especially those dealing with his foreboding of the dangers of the technological age if it is not tempered by an equal development on our humanitarian side.
Having presented ourselves with this task, we can be guided by it throughout the creation of the film as to how well each segment and particle that we use best fulfills this task.
➠
GENERAL CONCEPT AND THEME OF SCRIPT
In the following treatment, I will provide the general scenes but not always the specific shots, for example; an interview shot must contain 'opposite' views [interviewer and interviewee], background, general location etc. and these accessory details must match the mood and tempo of the general interview. This is crucial to the pacing of the final product, and another reason why one cannot always predict the final order of the outcome. In certain places I will provide some rudimentary dialogue which is flexible for the most part and can be changed or improvised. The questions can be added to and are meant as a beginning - a lot of the archival footage will be put in when we see exactly what we have. All of the speeches presented are subject to edit as well as the narrator lines which are flexible.
The general theme is the idea of one day, from sunrise to sunset, also the seasons, spring time to fall, and thus, the man's life from birth to death.
The 'feeling' of the film should be one of curiosity and adventure. If we can impart this feeling, our viewers will share this and absorb what we have to offer - this must be entertaining - but it is entertainment on a high level.
To a certain extent, the following treatment is a framework which will provide an opportunity for the producer to add in certain concerns etc. as they sees fit and important.
As Tolstoy himself said: 'The hero of my stories is truth.' As much as possible, I want to rely on his own writings for the body of the film, that way we cannot be criticized for presenting a particular point of view. As for his religious and philosophical viewpoints, they have not been stressed to such an extent before, and as discussed, this is our purpose here. To some extent, and due to the timeliness of these viewpoints, we will justify many of his sayings, especially those dealing with his foreboding of the dangers of the technological age if it is not tempered by an equal development on our humanitarian side.
Having presented ourselves with this task, we can be guided by it throughout the creation of the film as to how well each segment and particle that we use best fulfills this task.
➠
IN SEARCH OF TOLSTOY
SCENE ONE: Screen is blank, slight crackling as though film is running, some spots appear as bad film, some crackling sounds, low, then louder, then these sounds emerge as a cock crowing, there are three distinct crowing calls [betrayal]. Before the last one is over, it is cross mingled with additional bird sounds, a dog barking, then with children's laughter and shouting. The screen begins to grow lighter, then we start to make out the morning sun, it seems to come through some trees, wide angle sweep cuts through some little village buildings, then comes to rest on the gates of Yasnaya Polyana, bathed in early morning pink light. [This shot can be done from the parking lot from left to right.]
SCENE TWO: We now see the children laughing and running and skipping up to the gate [these can be the children from the local orphanage that visit V. Tolstoy]. Camera follows behind them, then over, up the hill, to the left, past the Volkonsky house and to the forest. Children's shouts and singing cross mingle with shouts and talk of two boys playing, until we see them in the glade.
Nickoli: Don't look, this is a secret, this is the secret of the Ant Brothers.
Lev: What do you mean?
Nickoli: The secret is written on this stick, people living together, no disease, no anger, no misery, it's all written on here. The secret of happiness!
Lev: [Hiding his head against a tree.]
I am not looking, I am counting to ten, then I am looking - one - two - three -
Nickoli: Wait, wait, I am digging, I am hiding it . . .
[He is scrambling through a bush, we cannot really see what he is doing].
If you find this secret, think of what a world there will be!
Lev: Get ready! Four - five - six - ! [Pause] . . . seven - eight - nine - ten! Here I come!
Nickoli: I have hidden it! I have hidden the green stick! Try and find it!
Lev: [Searching all around]
I will find it - I will keep searching! I will find it if it takes all my life! [Cross fade sound on boys to Voice.]
Boys continue playing with some of the choral ensemble singing in the background, we hear the voice of Leo Tolstoy.
Voice: The ideal of the Ant Brothers clinging lovingly to one another . . . all of the people of the world under the dome of heaven, has remained unaltered for me. As I then believed that there was a little green stick whereon was written something which would destroy all evil in men and give them great blessings, so now I believe that such truth exists among people and will be revealed to them and will give them what it promises.
[If this opening scene is successful, we are now free to re-enact any scene we think is important. The technique will be accepted by our audience.] [See below.]
SCENE THREE: Near the gates, the first of a line of buses unloading passengers, they begin walking through the gates.
[Writer's note: What I am attempting to establish in these opening scenes is a comfort level in switching from history to contemporary - through the use of the scholars we try to treat Tolstoy as our contemporary, living for us today rather than as a piece of curious history, for the experts and for us, he does live, and so he must for our audience.]
SCENE FOUR: Cut to trees where boys were playing, then pan further to show present grave site of L. Tolstoy, a guide is explaining . . . ]
Guide: It was near here somewhere, they said that Nickoli, that was Leo's older brother, and Leo used to play together, and one game was the legend of the green stick, and they said that whoever could find the green stick would find the secret of universal happiness.
SCENE FIVE: Archival footage of school boys and Tolstoy's school [if it is still standing, present day footage of the school may be used with Guide or simply our narrator inside speaking:]
Guide: Some people said that Lev was an indifferent student, but it wasn't he who was inadequate, it was the educational system.
Archival footage should show boys in uniforms, regimented, and could suggest why he did not 'fit in.' This scene could be shot there showing contemporary students, if suitable archival footage is available, it would be satisfactory. There are photographs of Kazan University.
Lev followed his three older brothers into the University of Kazan, he contemplated a diplomatic career which required studies in the Faculty of Oriental Languages. In 1844 he wrote his entrance examinations, but failed some courses which didn't interest him and was denied admission. He re-wrote the failed subjects, and at the age of sixteen, in 1844, joined his three older brothers in this institution.
Archival footage should look to student photo's showing uniforms etc. and if possible, some social occasions or at least girls.
He failed his midterms and switched to the Faculty of Jurisprudence.
VOICE: I gave up the university because I wished to occupy myself . . . in the limitless horizons of reading many books. There I was obliged to work at and study things that did not interest me and were not necessary.
My university career was one of coarse dissoluteness, employed in the service of ambition, vanity, and above all, lust. When my brothers took me for the first time to a brothel and I accomplished this act, I then stood by the woman's bed and wept.
Archival shot of Lev as student with his brothers, then back to the school room with a stern school master.
. . . I thought it was a most undeserved punishment for Saint-Thomas first to lock me up in a room, and then to threaten me with a rod. I experienced a terrible feeling of indignation, revolt, and aversion not only to Saint-Thomas, but towards that violence which he wished to exercise on me. The occasion was perhaps one reason for the horror and aversion for every kind of violence which I have felt throughout my whole life.
[Ref: Tolstoy in Life, several early photo's.]
Guide: At this time, Lev received his inheritance of 5400 acres and 350 male serfs. For some time, he lived the life of the young aristocrat, visiting St. Petersburg, Moscow and Tula.
Archival footage of early Yasnaya Polyana and serfs at work, other serf shots as in their houses etc., and young girls.
VOICE: A discussion of God and Faith brought me to a great, a stupendous idea, to the realization of which I felt able to devote my life. The idea is to create a new religion corresponding to the development of mankind, a religion of Christ purified from dogma and mysticism, a practical religion, not promising bliss in the future, but giving happiness on earth. I understand that this idea can be realized only by a generations consciously working for that purpose. One generation will bequeath this idea to the next, and some day by fanaticism or by reason or will it will be realized. To work consciously for the union of mankind by religion - that is the foundation of the idea which I hope will inspire me.
This written in 1885 at the age of 27 years, it links to the end and sets the framework of our film. Archival photo's of Tolstoy at age 27, Yasnaya Polyana and social scenes.
SCENE SIX: The Remington room - there is a small group of adults gathered around the old Edison gramophone, we hear Lev Tolstoy speaking on 'THOUGHTS FOR EVERY DAY'.
Guide: Here his secretary, Bulgakov, recorded some of the THOUGHTS FOR EVERY DAY, this was near the end of his life, and here, his daughter Sasha typed answers and letters of his correspondence, this also towards the end of his life. Now his 'Thoughts for every day' were statements that applied to every day life that he felt everyone should be aware of . . .
He then explains, in his own words, the significance of Thoughts for Every Day, this on the gramophone.
SCENE SEVEN: Senior Guide now takes us on a tour of the major work areas of Tolstoy's career, where he wrote WAR AND PEACE, ANNA KARENINA, etc. all of the major areas should be covered [several next scenes], beginning with the famous 'green couch which was upholstered with black oilskin' where he was born. The social rooms such as dining rooms, living room with piano etc. can receive less attention than the major work areas, however, a picture is worth a thousand words, and the present day dining room should be inter-cut with archival photographs and perhaps some of the Pasternack sketches showing some dinners with famous guests such as Chekhov, Mavor, Gorky etc. Such items as the case containing his walking stick and guns should be inter-cut with archival photo's of his hunting scenes etc. In a capsulized way, his youth should be covered here, born 1828, archival photograph of the house, death of his mother in 1830, silhouette, becoming an orphan when his father died in 1837, his grandmother raising him, then being brought up by his aunt etc. - this should be linked to his development as an artist and his themes of family life - there is a later connection when he creates and maintains his own family.
There are paintings available of all of the above, and some early images of him. The work areas where he wrote should be covered in some detail, including scenes of his original manuscripts with the many corrections, some of the archival photographs showing him at work in these areas, and some paintings as well, the music room should be shown with his piano and his composition and other favourite composers of his playing in the background throughout this section, the library should be noted and narrated showing some of his significant marginal notes [which are now being computerized and catalogued, several thousand volumes in 35 languages.]
What this tour should show is the immensity of the man in as quick a time as possible. Ideally, the small tour group are adults, and should be our other interviewees, that way we introduce them and they ask intelligent questions which relate to their areas of interests, we will hear more specifically from them later on. This is a very important part of the documentary as it covers his 'earlier' life before the spiritual conversion, and leads up to it.
Paintings are available of the Caucasus experience, Crimean war etc. and appropriate music should be used.
The tour ends with Sonya's bedroom, then his bedroom, the last room he slept in before he left on his last journey .
VOICE: Man survives earthquakes, epidemics, terrible illnesses and every kind of physical suffering, but always the most poignant tragedy was, is and ever will be the tragedy of the bedroom.
This interview must be cleverly and carefully juxtaposed with archival photo's of him as he reaches manhood and is joined with Sonya.
Guide: As they grew older, they grew further apart, you can see that although at first they shared their diaries, eventually they kept their own - he eventually kept a secret one hidden in various places, his boots, desk drawers, perhaps even the barn where his favourite horse was. He was afraid to share it with her, to have her read it - as the gulf between them widened, their lives became more individual, no longer two strong trees standing side by side with branches intertwined, but an older straggly tree with branches and leaves torn off, a tree leaning farther and farther away from its mate as it is buffeted by the winds of spiritual assault. The other tree sees what's happening and tries to retain its leaves and branches, the more the one loses, the more the other tries to keep its own. That's how their life came apart. When did it start?
[WRITER'S NOTE - You see here the difficulty of pre-planning too much and of putting words into our subject's mouth. Through my use of this language I am trying to suggest a tone for the scene - we know what we want but we don't know if we can get it - sometimes they will surprise us and give us something more valuable that we had even envisioned.]
SCENE EIGHT: The tour ends in the kitchen, if it is possible I would like all of these senior authorities together essentially having a cup of tea and asking questions and having an informal discussion with a Senior Authority of Yasnaya Polyana.
The other participants are free to express their opinions here [their comments may be used elsewhere in the film], the Senior Guide becomes somewhat of a moderator here. As far as I know, these people have never been gathered together in one place, especially the Yasnaya Polyana kitchen, and this in itself would be an historic documentation.
The discussion should cover the beginnings of Tolstoy's spiritual awakening, the presence of his moral tone in his earlier works and the evolution of his spiritual concepts. If necessary some of the group can be primed to ask certain questions. If the discussion cannot take place in the residence kitchen, it could take place in the White kitchen which is now a research work room and has a samovar, it should be informal but imbued with a sense of history.
As the discussion continues, there is a general fade down in lighting until the action freezes, people as they are talking are put into still as though they are lost in thought, each person conjuring up their own image of the Tolstoy that was.
Fade to dark as we hear once more the scratchy voice on the record speaking of 'The thoughts for every day.'
Cross fade to door way and we see Tolstoy as he had appeared in 1880, as though he is addressing a group of friends; there is a matching cross fade in voice as well, the tinny phonograph record voice fades out as the strong, youthful vibrant voice of Tolstoy takes over:
Tolstoy: [The edited text of the major speech of Confessions in which he expresses his disillusionment with the Orthodox religion, his success and approbation of when he gambled, drank and lived licentiously, his examination of Christian values as they seem to him from reading the gospels, his renunciation of contemporary religion to form a more meaningful one of his own.
This should be a dramatic statement, attention getting, hence the actor and his actual re-enactment - it is here that we see the essence of his new belief].
A radical change has occurred in me; it has been coming for a long time - indeed, the seeds of it were always present in me. What has happened is that the life of our circle - the rich, the educated - has not only become repellent to me, it has lost all meaning . . . The actions of the working people, who created life, have come to seem the only true occupation.
I turned to the simple Russian people and to their meaning of life. This meaning, if one can put it into words, was the following: each man appears in this world by God's will. God created men in such a way that they can damn their souls or save them. The main task of a person in life is to save his soul, to live according to God's will. In order to live according to God's will one has to deny all pleasures in life. One has to work, humble oneself, suffer and be kind.
SCENE NINE: Cut to Exterior. Demonstrating to one person [possibly myself:]
Tolstoy Descendant: This is the marker, this is where the house stood that was carted away, piece by piece after he lost it at cards in 1840.
[We both walk on towards the barn, talking].
He loved his horses, his favourite one at the end was Delire - he went riding nearly every day. It has been calculated that he spent a total of seven years on horseback throughout his life.
This is inter-cut with archival footage of Tolstoy on horseback, also some possible stills.
Here we would like a short conversation with the head man in charge of the stables, providing he can speak about the traditional role of the stables dating back to Tolstoy's time.
At the barn, noise effects of horses whinnying and snorting, stamping feet, try to evoke the feeling of animals and contact with nature. We mount horses, the rest of the interview with descendant is on horseback, riding through areas that Tolstoy would have rode in.
Not far from here he had the nearly fatal encounter with the bear. He was a very successful hunter . . .
Throughout this dialogue we cover all of Tolstoy's successful 'Count' life, especially the rakish part.
This can be inter-cut with archival footage, including war scenes, hunting scenes, scenes of balls etc., not just with Tolstoy in them but others which suit the time, paintings as well as photographs.
[Each interview scene has to be rehearsed so that our respondents know approximately what information we are seeking from their particular level of expertise, every interviewee covers a particular aspect of his life. The reason I have put myself in here is because I can ride and two men on horseback carry a strong visual image of that active, physical, aggressive part of Tolstoy's career.]
SCENE ONE: Screen is blank, slight crackling as though film is running, some spots appear as bad film, some crackling sounds, low, then louder, then these sounds emerge as a cock crowing, there are three distinct crowing calls [betrayal]. Before the last one is over, it is cross mingled with additional bird sounds, a dog barking, then with children's laughter and shouting. The screen begins to grow lighter, then we start to make out the morning sun, it seems to come through some trees, wide angle sweep cuts through some little village buildings, then comes to rest on the gates of Yasnaya Polyana, bathed in early morning pink light. [This shot can be done from the parking lot from left to right.]
SCENE TWO: We now see the children laughing and running and skipping up to the gate [these can be the children from the local orphanage that visit V. Tolstoy]. Camera follows behind them, then over, up the hill, to the left, past the Volkonsky house and to the forest. Children's shouts and singing cross mingle with shouts and talk of two boys playing, until we see them in the glade.
Nickoli: Don't look, this is a secret, this is the secret of the Ant Brothers.
Lev: What do you mean?
Nickoli: The secret is written on this stick, people living together, no disease, no anger, no misery, it's all written on here. The secret of happiness!
Lev: [Hiding his head against a tree.]
I am not looking, I am counting to ten, then I am looking - one - two - three -
Nickoli: Wait, wait, I am digging, I am hiding it . . .
[He is scrambling through a bush, we cannot really see what he is doing].
If you find this secret, think of what a world there will be!
Lev: Get ready! Four - five - six - ! [Pause] . . . seven - eight - nine - ten! Here I come!
Nickoli: I have hidden it! I have hidden the green stick! Try and find it!
Lev: [Searching all around]
I will find it - I will keep searching! I will find it if it takes all my life! [Cross fade sound on boys to Voice.]
Boys continue playing with some of the choral ensemble singing in the background, we hear the voice of Leo Tolstoy.
Voice: The ideal of the Ant Brothers clinging lovingly to one another . . . all of the people of the world under the dome of heaven, has remained unaltered for me. As I then believed that there was a little green stick whereon was written something which would destroy all evil in men and give them great blessings, so now I believe that such truth exists among people and will be revealed to them and will give them what it promises.
[If this opening scene is successful, we are now free to re-enact any scene we think is important. The technique will be accepted by our audience.] [See below.]
SCENE THREE: Near the gates, the first of a line of buses unloading passengers, they begin walking through the gates.
[Writer's note: What I am attempting to establish in these opening scenes is a comfort level in switching from history to contemporary - through the use of the scholars we try to treat Tolstoy as our contemporary, living for us today rather than as a piece of curious history, for the experts and for us, he does live, and so he must for our audience.]
SCENE FOUR: Cut to trees where boys were playing, then pan further to show present grave site of L. Tolstoy, a guide is explaining . . . ]
Guide: It was near here somewhere, they said that Nickoli, that was Leo's older brother, and Leo used to play together, and one game was the legend of the green stick, and they said that whoever could find the green stick would find the secret of universal happiness.
SCENE FIVE: Archival footage of school boys and Tolstoy's school [if it is still standing, present day footage of the school may be used with Guide or simply our narrator inside speaking:]
Guide: Some people said that Lev was an indifferent student, but it wasn't he who was inadequate, it was the educational system.
Archival footage should show boys in uniforms, regimented, and could suggest why he did not 'fit in.' This scene could be shot there showing contemporary students, if suitable archival footage is available, it would be satisfactory. There are photographs of Kazan University.
Lev followed his three older brothers into the University of Kazan, he contemplated a diplomatic career which required studies in the Faculty of Oriental Languages. In 1844 he wrote his entrance examinations, but failed some courses which didn't interest him and was denied admission. He re-wrote the failed subjects, and at the age of sixteen, in 1844, joined his three older brothers in this institution.
Archival footage should look to student photo's showing uniforms etc. and if possible, some social occasions or at least girls.
He failed his midterms and switched to the Faculty of Jurisprudence.
VOICE: I gave up the university because I wished to occupy myself . . . in the limitless horizons of reading many books. There I was obliged to work at and study things that did not interest me and were not necessary.
My university career was one of coarse dissoluteness, employed in the service of ambition, vanity, and above all, lust. When my brothers took me for the first time to a brothel and I accomplished this act, I then stood by the woman's bed and wept.
Archival shot of Lev as student with his brothers, then back to the school room with a stern school master.
. . . I thought it was a most undeserved punishment for Saint-Thomas first to lock me up in a room, and then to threaten me with a rod. I experienced a terrible feeling of indignation, revolt, and aversion not only to Saint-Thomas, but towards that violence which he wished to exercise on me. The occasion was perhaps one reason for the horror and aversion for every kind of violence which I have felt throughout my whole life.
[Ref: Tolstoy in Life, several early photo's.]
Guide: At this time, Lev received his inheritance of 5400 acres and 350 male serfs. For some time, he lived the life of the young aristocrat, visiting St. Petersburg, Moscow and Tula.
Archival footage of early Yasnaya Polyana and serfs at work, other serf shots as in their houses etc., and young girls.
VOICE: A discussion of God and Faith brought me to a great, a stupendous idea, to the realization of which I felt able to devote my life. The idea is to create a new religion corresponding to the development of mankind, a religion of Christ purified from dogma and mysticism, a practical religion, not promising bliss in the future, but giving happiness on earth. I understand that this idea can be realized only by a generations consciously working for that purpose. One generation will bequeath this idea to the next, and some day by fanaticism or by reason or will it will be realized. To work consciously for the union of mankind by religion - that is the foundation of the idea which I hope will inspire me.
This written in 1885 at the age of 27 years, it links to the end and sets the framework of our film. Archival photo's of Tolstoy at age 27, Yasnaya Polyana and social scenes.
SCENE SIX: The Remington room - there is a small group of adults gathered around the old Edison gramophone, we hear Lev Tolstoy speaking on 'THOUGHTS FOR EVERY DAY'.
Guide: Here his secretary, Bulgakov, recorded some of the THOUGHTS FOR EVERY DAY, this was near the end of his life, and here, his daughter Sasha typed answers and letters of his correspondence, this also towards the end of his life. Now his 'Thoughts for every day' were statements that applied to every day life that he felt everyone should be aware of . . .
He then explains, in his own words, the significance of Thoughts for Every Day, this on the gramophone.
SCENE SEVEN: Senior Guide now takes us on a tour of the major work areas of Tolstoy's career, where he wrote WAR AND PEACE, ANNA KARENINA, etc. all of the major areas should be covered [several next scenes], beginning with the famous 'green couch which was upholstered with black oilskin' where he was born. The social rooms such as dining rooms, living room with piano etc. can receive less attention than the major work areas, however, a picture is worth a thousand words, and the present day dining room should be inter-cut with archival photographs and perhaps some of the Pasternack sketches showing some dinners with famous guests such as Chekhov, Mavor, Gorky etc. Such items as the case containing his walking stick and guns should be inter-cut with archival photo's of his hunting scenes etc. In a capsulized way, his youth should be covered here, born 1828, archival photograph of the house, death of his mother in 1830, silhouette, becoming an orphan when his father died in 1837, his grandmother raising him, then being brought up by his aunt etc. - this should be linked to his development as an artist and his themes of family life - there is a later connection when he creates and maintains his own family.
There are paintings available of all of the above, and some early images of him. The work areas where he wrote should be covered in some detail, including scenes of his original manuscripts with the many corrections, some of the archival photographs showing him at work in these areas, and some paintings as well, the music room should be shown with his piano and his composition and other favourite composers of his playing in the background throughout this section, the library should be noted and narrated showing some of his significant marginal notes [which are now being computerized and catalogued, several thousand volumes in 35 languages.]
What this tour should show is the immensity of the man in as quick a time as possible. Ideally, the small tour group are adults, and should be our other interviewees, that way we introduce them and they ask intelligent questions which relate to their areas of interests, we will hear more specifically from them later on. This is a very important part of the documentary as it covers his 'earlier' life before the spiritual conversion, and leads up to it.
Paintings are available of the Caucasus experience, Crimean war etc. and appropriate music should be used.
The tour ends with Sonya's bedroom, then his bedroom, the last room he slept in before he left on his last journey .
VOICE: Man survives earthquakes, epidemics, terrible illnesses and every kind of physical suffering, but always the most poignant tragedy was, is and ever will be the tragedy of the bedroom.
This interview must be cleverly and carefully juxtaposed with archival photo's of him as he reaches manhood and is joined with Sonya.
Guide: As they grew older, they grew further apart, you can see that although at first they shared their diaries, eventually they kept their own - he eventually kept a secret one hidden in various places, his boots, desk drawers, perhaps even the barn where his favourite horse was. He was afraid to share it with her, to have her read it - as the gulf between them widened, their lives became more individual, no longer two strong trees standing side by side with branches intertwined, but an older straggly tree with branches and leaves torn off, a tree leaning farther and farther away from its mate as it is buffeted by the winds of spiritual assault. The other tree sees what's happening and tries to retain its leaves and branches, the more the one loses, the more the other tries to keep its own. That's how their life came apart. When did it start?
[WRITER'S NOTE - You see here the difficulty of pre-planning too much and of putting words into our subject's mouth. Through my use of this language I am trying to suggest a tone for the scene - we know what we want but we don't know if we can get it - sometimes they will surprise us and give us something more valuable that we had even envisioned.]
SCENE EIGHT: The tour ends in the kitchen, if it is possible I would like all of these senior authorities together essentially having a cup of tea and asking questions and having an informal discussion with a Senior Authority of Yasnaya Polyana.
The other participants are free to express their opinions here [their comments may be used elsewhere in the film], the Senior Guide becomes somewhat of a moderator here. As far as I know, these people have never been gathered together in one place, especially the Yasnaya Polyana kitchen, and this in itself would be an historic documentation.
The discussion should cover the beginnings of Tolstoy's spiritual awakening, the presence of his moral tone in his earlier works and the evolution of his spiritual concepts. If necessary some of the group can be primed to ask certain questions. If the discussion cannot take place in the residence kitchen, it could take place in the White kitchen which is now a research work room and has a samovar, it should be informal but imbued with a sense of history.
As the discussion continues, there is a general fade down in lighting until the action freezes, people as they are talking are put into still as though they are lost in thought, each person conjuring up their own image of the Tolstoy that was.
Fade to dark as we hear once more the scratchy voice on the record speaking of 'The thoughts for every day.'
Cross fade to door way and we see Tolstoy as he had appeared in 1880, as though he is addressing a group of friends; there is a matching cross fade in voice as well, the tinny phonograph record voice fades out as the strong, youthful vibrant voice of Tolstoy takes over:
Tolstoy: [The edited text of the major speech of Confessions in which he expresses his disillusionment with the Orthodox religion, his success and approbation of when he gambled, drank and lived licentiously, his examination of Christian values as they seem to him from reading the gospels, his renunciation of contemporary religion to form a more meaningful one of his own.
This should be a dramatic statement, attention getting, hence the actor and his actual re-enactment - it is here that we see the essence of his new belief].
A radical change has occurred in me; it has been coming for a long time - indeed, the seeds of it were always present in me. What has happened is that the life of our circle - the rich, the educated - has not only become repellent to me, it has lost all meaning . . . The actions of the working people, who created life, have come to seem the only true occupation.
I turned to the simple Russian people and to their meaning of life. This meaning, if one can put it into words, was the following: each man appears in this world by God's will. God created men in such a way that they can damn their souls or save them. The main task of a person in life is to save his soul, to live according to God's will. In order to live according to God's will one has to deny all pleasures in life. One has to work, humble oneself, suffer and be kind.
SCENE NINE: Cut to Exterior. Demonstrating to one person [possibly myself:]
Tolstoy Descendant: This is the marker, this is where the house stood that was carted away, piece by piece after he lost it at cards in 1840.
[We both walk on towards the barn, talking].
He loved his horses, his favourite one at the end was Delire - he went riding nearly every day. It has been calculated that he spent a total of seven years on horseback throughout his life.
This is inter-cut with archival footage of Tolstoy on horseback, also some possible stills.
Here we would like a short conversation with the head man in charge of the stables, providing he can speak about the traditional role of the stables dating back to Tolstoy's time.
At the barn, noise effects of horses whinnying and snorting, stamping feet, try to evoke the feeling of animals and contact with nature. We mount horses, the rest of the interview with descendant is on horseback, riding through areas that Tolstoy would have rode in.
Not far from here he had the nearly fatal encounter with the bear. He was a very successful hunter . . .
Throughout this dialogue we cover all of Tolstoy's successful 'Count' life, especially the rakish part.
This can be inter-cut with archival footage, including war scenes, hunting scenes, scenes of balls etc., not just with Tolstoy in them but others which suit the time, paintings as well as photographs.
[Each interview scene has to be rehearsed so that our respondents know approximately what information we are seeking from their particular level of expertise, every interviewee covers a particular aspect of his life. The reason I have put myself in here is because I can ride and two men on horseback carry a strong visual image of that active, physical, aggressive part of Tolstoy's career.]
SCENE TEN: The next series of scenes will be with University of Moscow editor of Tolstoy editions in which she traces specifically how Tolstoy fell away from the Orthodox church - there will be archival footage of oppressed masses [not fitting in with the society of the time], the grandeur of the Orthodox ceremonies, archival footage of Nicholas II [the coronation of Nicholas II was the first recorded film news event] and war, we are looking for a contrast between the rich and the poor, and how the Christianity of the day did not address these concerns [as today]. Somewhere within this scene, we should consider introducing Tolstoy's travels through Europe where he saw many schools etc. and the famous execution in Paris.
VOICE: The repulsive crowd, the father who explains to his little daughter the clever, convenient mechanism that does this etc. Human law - nonsense! . . . I understand the laws of custom, of morality and religion . . . and I feel the laws of art that give happiness always; but for me, political laws are such a horrible lie that I do not see in them anything either better or worse . . . I will never again look at such a thing and I will never serve any government.
As that bright blade fell, I rejected the state.
[Sound effect of blade falling, some crowd noise, approval and shrieks, children].
To illustrate this we should also have homeless beggars and street people, in Moscow, St. Petersburg, or even New York City or Vancouver. Contemporary shots of modern day refugees can be used to illustrate the inadequacy of today's Christian religion.
[The leading consumers of the world remain the Christian nations of North America, England, France, West Germany etc., 10% of the world's population consuming 90% of the worlds' resources; somehow we must draw a parallel between the social conditions of Tolstoy's time to those of today to make this a vital, necessary concern, see statistic page at end.] Throughout this section of Tolstoy's spiritual conversion we should see his developing humanitarian instinct and his probing to comprehend the Christian religion, the difference between the gospels and the Orthodox 'practise' of Christianity. Some relevant contemporary images can be used here.
VOICE: In 1881 I came to live in Moscow, the sight of town poverty took me by surprise. One cannot cross a street without meeting beggars. By law, all beggars are forbidden to beg. Either there are legal and illegal beggars or there are so many, they can't catch all of them; perhaps as soon as some are caught, others spring up. One frosty windswept day in December I went to the heart of the town's destitution - Hitrof market. All were hungry, freezing, importunate, and submissive, drawing around me and pressing near the seller of hot drinks. They implored me with their looks, begging. I gave away everything I had with me.
I went home. There I entered the carpeted, elegant hallway of my house. Taking off my fur coat, I sat down to a five course dinner. Five lackeys with white ties and white gloves served me the meal.
In Paris, I once saw how they cut a man's head off with a guillotine. The moment the head and body separated, with the head toppling into the box, I gasped and realized not with my mind but with my heart and my whole soul that all the arguments in favour of capital punishment are wicked nonsense - murder remains murder. I, by my very presence and nonintervention, had approved and shared in that crime.
In the same way now, at the sight of the hunger, cold, and degradation of thousands of people, I understood not only with my mind or heart but with my very soul that the existence of tens of thousands of such people - while I and thousands of others gorge ourselves on beefsteaks and sturgeon and cover our horses and floors with cloth or carpets - no matter what all the learned men in the world may say about its necessity, is a crime, and one committed not once but constantly. I knew that I, with my luxury, shared fully the responsibility for this crime.
[This speech under the previous scene at appropriate footage, is also foreshadowing for the later conflict with Sonya].
SCENE ELEVEN: This section deals with Tolstoy's influences from around the world, the early influence of Rousseau, his North American influences as expounded by our Senior Guide, his sympathy to the American progressive writers who he was aware of, beginning with other 'foreign' writers which influenced him such as Schopenhauer, Balzac, etc. From this section we must see that he did not see the Russian case in isolation, but that the philosophy of moral and Christian life was a world wide problem.
Archival footage here with famine and war scenes [once we have their attention, we can focus on the problem - we must present what Tolstoy himself found horrifying.] It is here also that the influence of North American writers must be presented as an early 'spiritual' influence on Tolstoy, an influence which emerges at a later time. Particularly important are Adin Ballou and William Lloyd Garrison and the 'Declaration of Sentiments.'
SCENE TWELVE: What to do with the discovery of the true Christianity and Christian morality. This interview begins with an authority from the University of Petersburg, the coverage of Tolstoy's practise of morality, his attempts of famine relief, his defence of the peasants for wood stealing [appearances in court], some of this interview from the court building in Tula, [at least exterior if interior is gone, I believe the inside is now a concert hall], archival footage of peasants gathering wood and some shots of their modest existence etc. Tolstoy's practical humanitarian efforts should be highlighted here, the famine relief of 1891, the freeing of his own serfs before the emancipation, the advent of the new 'utopian socialism' concept, his experience as ARBITER OF THE PEACE where he tried to negotiate disputes between landowners and peasants [did not please the gentry and resigned], his educational primers and teachings which lead to the later declaration and publication WHAT IS ART?, in 1881 his letter to Alexander III asking him to pardon the six revolutionists [there should be archival photo's for this.] Such points as the Sevastopol stories with his anti-war theme and the fact that as early as 1853 he said that literary work should have a moral, should be mentioned.
VOICE: No, this world is not some joke, merely a vale of trials, the way to a better, eternal world; it is one of the eternal worlds, a beautiful and joyous one, which we not only can, but must make more beautiful and joyous - for those who live in it, with us and for those who will live here after us.
This section should end with his assistance to the Doukhobors and their emigration. This section highlighted with archival photo's and music, should indicate that Tolstoy was 'interested in souls as well as minds' and basically for three decades he held a public, moral position through and in addition to his writing.
The other subjects can comment here also.
SCENE THIRTEEN: Archival footage of some of the prisons, penal battalions and prisoners trekking to Siberia. Some of these prisons are still standing if we will be allowed to film them. If not, some stills may be. There is an evocative Doukhobor lament [DEEN BOM] which captures the feeling of Siberian exile which could be used here in back ground. Since he completed RESURRECTION to finance the Doukhobor emigration, it could be appropriate to work in some of Pasternak's sketches which were made for the book.
VOICE: [Speech from RESURRECTION prison scene where priest appears to minister unto the condemned but the hypocrisy and inadequacy of the church ritual is revealed].
The priest, having dressed himself up in a strange and very uncomfortable samite vestment, cut and arranged little bits of bread on a saucer and then put them into a cup of wine, repeating at the same time different names and prayers. Meanwhile the reader first read prayers in Slavonic, difficult to understand in themselves and rendered still more incomprehensible by being read very fast, and then sang them in turn with the [convict] choir. The prayers chiefly expressed wishes for the welfare of His Majesty the Emperor and his family. These were repeated many times, separately and together with other prayers, the people kneeling. Besides this, the reader rendered several verses from the Acts of the Apostles in such a peculiarly strained voice that it was impossible to understand a word, and then the priest himself read very distinctly that part of St. Mark's gospel in which it is told how Christ, having risen from the dead, before flying up to heaven to sit down at His Father's right hand, first appeared to Mary Magdalene, out of him he had cast seven devils, and afterwards, to eleven of His apostles, and told them to go into the world and preach the gospel to every creature, saying that he who did not believe should be damned, but he who believed and was baptized would be saved, and would cast out devils and cure people by laying hands on them, and would speak in new tongues, take serpents in his hands, and if he drank any deadly poison it would not hurt him.
The idea of the service was that bits of bread cut up by the priest and put into the wine, when manipulated and prayed over in a certain way, supposedly turned into the flesh and blood of God. These manipulations performed by the priest, in spite of being hampered by the samite sack he had on, included his raising and holding aloft both arms, and then sinking to his knees and kissing the table and all that was on it; but chiefly in his taking a cloth by two of its corners and waving it rhythmically and gently over the silver saucer and the golden cup. It was supposed that it was at this point the bread and wine turned into flesh and blood; therefore this part of the service was performed with utmost solemnity.
"Now to the blessed, most pure, and most holy Mother of God," the priest cried from behind the partition which divided part of the church from the rest. And the choir began solemnly to sing that it was very right to glorify the Virgin Mary, who had born Christ without losing her virginity, and was therefore more worthy of the great honour that mere cherubims and greater glory than mere seraphims. After this, the transformation was considered accomplished, and the priest, having taken the napkin off the saucer, cut the middle piece of bread in four, and put it first into the wine and then into the mouth. He was supposed to have eaten a piece of God's flesh and swallowed a little of his blood. Then he drew back the curtain, opened the middle door of the partition, and taking the gold cup in his hands came out of the door, inviting those who wished to do so also to come and have some of God's flesh and blood contained in the cup.
[This was the passage that resulted in his excommunication and could possibly be placed near that reference].
SCENE FOURTEEN: This section will deal with the introduction of the 'dark ones', the attempts to make the spiritual writings available to all at minimum cost - the introduction of Tchertkov, and will feature interviews with a specialist on the spiritual nature of Tolstoy. This section should mention the cancellation of liberal reforms by Alexander III, and his outmoded belief that as monarch he was an instrument of God meant to preserve the monarchy, this was the age of the Industrial Revolution and a Depression which saw 'wealth accumulate and men decay' - the publication of WHAT THEN MUST WE DO?, WHAT IS ART? [Art must have a moral premise], THE KINGDOM OF GOD IS WITHIN YOU.
Nicholas II attempts to maintain the principles of democracy, persecutes Tolstoy's followers, continues police surveillance on him, Tolstoy writes him a letter offering a program of reforms.
In 1901, the response is the excommunication of Tolstoy from the Orthodox Church in an attempt to discredit him, the result is an increase in his popularity.
Tolstoy writes that autocracy is outmoded, peasants shouldn't be whipped, and appeals to Nicholas not to shoot at demonstrators, Tolstoy's statement against the Japanese war in 1904. Modest reforms are offered, then the Duma is dissolved in 1908, coinciding with the world wide celebration of Tolstoy's 80th birthday.
[Archival footage and newspaper headlines.] There is good archival footage available for most of the above scenes, there is a lot of information and we must be careful not to become boring.
If Chertkov's house is still standing we should show it with photographs of Leo and Chertkov together, if not photographs of his house, possibly scenes of THE FREE AGE PRESS in England, there is a collection at the University of Leeds which would have photographs and a professor there who would know if any buildings are still standing there. This is important because many of these spiritual writings were first published abroad, then smuggled back into Russia. [At this time, REMIZOV is in Japan where he is achieving much success with his lectures on Tolstoy at different universities, he is also supervising Ph. D. thesis on the morality of Tolstoy, this makes me think that a Japanese version of the film would be successful.]
NARRATOR: By this time, Lev Tolstoy could no longer continue being a wealthy landowner and proceeded to distribute his vast estates. By 1892, when he went to relieve the starvation of peasants in European Russia he had completed distributing his holdings among his wife and children. Not many people realized the immensity of his fortune, his children sold his Samara estate eight years later for 450,000 rubles, well over two million dollars, the Yasnaya Polyana holdings without the main building was evaluated at a million and a half U.S.
Part of the influence of his growing conviction of the rejection of private land ownership came from the theories of American economist, Henry George, who advocated a single tax to those who cultivated the land, rather than the actual ownership. Thus, only people who actually worked the land would benefit from it.
Unfortunately, after he gave away his properties, the estates were poorly run and provided little money. The main income came from the sale of his literary work and enabled the large family to live in style at Yasnaya Polyana and Moscow on about 15,000 rubles yearly.
This too, became a problem when he decided that his works should become public property.
As the children rejoiced over the successful business sale of the Samara estate . . .
Archival footage of family gatherings with sound effects of celebration.
VOICE: I have it always on my conscience that I, with my wish to renounce property, once bought estates. It is funny to think that it seems now as if I had wished to make provision to my children, and in doing so I did them the greatest injury. Look at my Andryushka: he is completely incapable of doing anything, and he lives on the people whom I once robbed, and whom my children keep on robbing. How terrible it is to listen to all this talk now, and watch it going on! It is so opposed to my ideas and desires and to everything I live by.
We also ask our specialist about today's practical application of his lessons, we film him in class and possibly interview some of his students, stressing the contemporary application of the Tolstoy philosophy.
SCENE FIFTEEN: The Tolstoy commune in Russia, interview with the leader, live coverage of the area, living conditions etc. with background as interview progresses. At this time I am presuming that it will show us a simple, Christian life such as Tolstoy may have aspired to.
SCENE SIXTEEN: This section ends with the estrangement of Lev and Sonya, archival footage in old age and still photographs.
This is a night scene and is in Sonya's room - some days before Tolstoy has decided to leave. He expresses the view that their different concepts of life are irreconcilable, dialogue from the diaries, a re-enactment. If finding a suitable SONYA is a problem, this scene can be done with Lev alone as he writes his last letter to her and addresses her photograph, we hear some of her comments. We could do this in his room as he talks to her picture before he leaves.
We don't want a 'domestic squabble' here, but am irreconcilable tragedy. There could be a reference to the 'rummaging in his desk in search of the will', the last straw which resulted in his departure.
VOICE: My departure will grieve you. I am sorry about this, but please understand and believe that I cannot do otherwise. My position in this house has become intolerable. Along with everything else, I can no longer abide these luxurious conditions. What I am now doing is what old people have commonly done - leave their worldly life behind to spend their last days in peace and solicitude. Please understand this and do not attempt to follow me, even if you discover my whereabouts. This would only worsen your position and mine. It would not change my decision.
I am grateful to you for your honest forty-eight years of life with me, and I ask you to forgive me for everything I am guilty of before you, as i, with all my heart, forgive you for what you may be guilty of before me. I advise you to adjust to the new conditions of life you will face on my departure, and to bear me no ill will.
SCENE SEVENTEEN: This is the ending of the film and will consist of archival footage of Astapovo leading to his funeral. There is a present day museum at the station and it may well be worth filming. We see the cleric Abbot Varsonofy, apparently acting on the instructions of the Metropolitan of St. Petersburg who had sent a telegram to Tolstoy begging him to repent. He was to be available to administer the last rites to Tolstoy, this would be a great coup for the Church and possibly prevent a peasant uprising.
VOICE: Whether or not these beliefs of mine offend, grieve, or prove a stumbling block to anyone, or hinder anything, or give displeasure to anybody, I can as little change them as I can change my body. I must myself live my own life, and I must myself alone meet death [and that very soon] and therefore I cannot belief otherwise than as I - preparing to go to that God from which I came - do believe. I do not believe my faith to be the one indubitable truth of all time; but I see no other that is plainer, clearer, or answers better to all the demands of my reason and my heart; should I find such a one I shall at once accept it; for God requires nothing but the truth. But I can no more return to that from which with such suffering I have escaped, than a flying bird can re-enter the eggshell from which it has emerged.
Under this speech we should see the clerics hovering about.
This ending will be undercut with fragments of his own voice choreographed with quotes from the narrator, his own music, newspaper headlines and possible radio reports if they are available.
VOICE: Because my heart is so weak, a meeting with my wife would be fatal.
Archival footage of Sonya peeking in window.
NARRATOR: According to his wishes, he was buried without priests and with no ecclesiastical rites, the first such public funeral in Russia.
Focus on banner at funeral procession.
The imposing simplicity of the funeral made a touching and exalting impression. The chanting of the De Profundus by the many thousands following the rude coffin, which was borne by peasants, heightened the impression. At the head of the cortege were two peasants, bearing an impoverished banner of coarse linen, attached to two birch poles, with the inscription: "The memory of your good deeds will not die amongst us."
The scene ends at the burial place at Yasnaya Polyana almost exactly as it had begun, but in black and white.
VOICE: A lot of fuss, letters, but when I die - within a year - they will be inquiring: Tolstoy? Ah, that count, who tried to cobble boots and something happened to him - that one?
Interspersed with our closing narrative comments and dialogue is the hymn ETERNAL MEMORY which was sung at the time. We must get an arrangement with a mass choir so we can use this as background. An older recording with some imperfections would be good so it would match the footage. This mingled with sounds of nightingales, horses whinnying, nature sounds that are evocative of Tolstoy's appreciation, fade on ETERNAL MEMORY, but less fade on the sounds so that in the end we hear the birds, dog barking, rooster crowing again etc.
SCENE FOURTEEN: This section will deal with the introduction of the 'dark ones', the attempts to make the spiritual writings available to all at minimum cost - the introduction of Tchertkov, and will feature interviews with a specialist on the spiritual nature of Tolstoy. This section should mention the cancellation of liberal reforms by Alexander III, and his outmoded belief that as monarch he was an instrument of God meant to preserve the monarchy, this was the age of the Industrial Revolution and a Depression which saw 'wealth accumulate and men decay' - the publication of WHAT THEN MUST WE DO?, WHAT IS ART? [Art must have a moral premise], THE KINGDOM OF GOD IS WITHIN YOU.
Nicholas II attempts to maintain the principles of democracy, persecutes Tolstoy's followers, continues police surveillance on him, Tolstoy writes him a letter offering a program of reforms.
In 1901, the response is the excommunication of Tolstoy from the Orthodox Church in an attempt to discredit him, the result is an increase in his popularity.
Tolstoy writes that autocracy is outmoded, peasants shouldn't be whipped, and appeals to Nicholas not to shoot at demonstrators, Tolstoy's statement against the Japanese war in 1904. Modest reforms are offered, then the Duma is dissolved in 1908, coinciding with the world wide celebration of Tolstoy's 80th birthday.
[Archival footage and newspaper headlines.] There is good archival footage available for most of the above scenes, there is a lot of information and we must be careful not to become boring.
If Chertkov's house is still standing we should show it with photographs of Leo and Chertkov together, if not photographs of his house, possibly scenes of THE FREE AGE PRESS in England, there is a collection at the University of Leeds which would have photographs and a professor there who would know if any buildings are still standing there. This is important because many of these spiritual writings were first published abroad, then smuggled back into Russia. [At this time, REMIZOV is in Japan where he is achieving much success with his lectures on Tolstoy at different universities, he is also supervising Ph. D. thesis on the morality of Tolstoy, this makes me think that a Japanese version of the film would be successful.]
NARRATOR: By this time, Lev Tolstoy could no longer continue being a wealthy landowner and proceeded to distribute his vast estates. By 1892, when he went to relieve the starvation of peasants in European Russia he had completed distributing his holdings among his wife and children. Not many people realized the immensity of his fortune, his children sold his Samara estate eight years later for 450,000 rubles, well over two million dollars, the Yasnaya Polyana holdings without the main building was evaluated at a million and a half U.S.
Part of the influence of his growing conviction of the rejection of private land ownership came from the theories of American economist, Henry George, who advocated a single tax to those who cultivated the land, rather than the actual ownership. Thus, only people who actually worked the land would benefit from it.
Unfortunately, after he gave away his properties, the estates were poorly run and provided little money. The main income came from the sale of his literary work and enabled the large family to live in style at Yasnaya Polyana and Moscow on about 15,000 rubles yearly.
This too, became a problem when he decided that his works should become public property.
As the children rejoiced over the successful business sale of the Samara estate . . .
Archival footage of family gatherings with sound effects of celebration.
VOICE: I have it always on my conscience that I, with my wish to renounce property, once bought estates. It is funny to think that it seems now as if I had wished to make provision to my children, and in doing so I did them the greatest injury. Look at my Andryushka: he is completely incapable of doing anything, and he lives on the people whom I once robbed, and whom my children keep on robbing. How terrible it is to listen to all this talk now, and watch it going on! It is so opposed to my ideas and desires and to everything I live by.
We also ask our specialist about today's practical application of his lessons, we film him in class and possibly interview some of his students, stressing the contemporary application of the Tolstoy philosophy.
SCENE FIFTEEN: The Tolstoy commune in Russia, interview with the leader, live coverage of the area, living conditions etc. with background as interview progresses. At this time I am presuming that it will show us a simple, Christian life such as Tolstoy may have aspired to.
SCENE SIXTEEN: This section ends with the estrangement of Lev and Sonya, archival footage in old age and still photographs.
This is a night scene and is in Sonya's room - some days before Tolstoy has decided to leave. He expresses the view that their different concepts of life are irreconcilable, dialogue from the diaries, a re-enactment. If finding a suitable SONYA is a problem, this scene can be done with Lev alone as he writes his last letter to her and addresses her photograph, we hear some of her comments. We could do this in his room as he talks to her picture before he leaves.
We don't want a 'domestic squabble' here, but am irreconcilable tragedy. There could be a reference to the 'rummaging in his desk in search of the will', the last straw which resulted in his departure.
VOICE: My departure will grieve you. I am sorry about this, but please understand and believe that I cannot do otherwise. My position in this house has become intolerable. Along with everything else, I can no longer abide these luxurious conditions. What I am now doing is what old people have commonly done - leave their worldly life behind to spend their last days in peace and solicitude. Please understand this and do not attempt to follow me, even if you discover my whereabouts. This would only worsen your position and mine. It would not change my decision.
I am grateful to you for your honest forty-eight years of life with me, and I ask you to forgive me for everything I am guilty of before you, as i, with all my heart, forgive you for what you may be guilty of before me. I advise you to adjust to the new conditions of life you will face on my departure, and to bear me no ill will.
SCENE SEVENTEEN: This is the ending of the film and will consist of archival footage of Astapovo leading to his funeral. There is a present day museum at the station and it may well be worth filming. We see the cleric Abbot Varsonofy, apparently acting on the instructions of the Metropolitan of St. Petersburg who had sent a telegram to Tolstoy begging him to repent. He was to be available to administer the last rites to Tolstoy, this would be a great coup for the Church and possibly prevent a peasant uprising.
VOICE: Whether or not these beliefs of mine offend, grieve, or prove a stumbling block to anyone, or hinder anything, or give displeasure to anybody, I can as little change them as I can change my body. I must myself live my own life, and I must myself alone meet death [and that very soon] and therefore I cannot belief otherwise than as I - preparing to go to that God from which I came - do believe. I do not believe my faith to be the one indubitable truth of all time; but I see no other that is plainer, clearer, or answers better to all the demands of my reason and my heart; should I find such a one I shall at once accept it; for God requires nothing but the truth. But I can no more return to that from which with such suffering I have escaped, than a flying bird can re-enter the eggshell from which it has emerged.
Under this speech we should see the clerics hovering about.
This ending will be undercut with fragments of his own voice choreographed with quotes from the narrator, his own music, newspaper headlines and possible radio reports if they are available.
VOICE: Because my heart is so weak, a meeting with my wife would be fatal.
Archival footage of Sonya peeking in window.
NARRATOR: According to his wishes, he was buried without priests and with no ecclesiastical rites, the first such public funeral in Russia.
Focus on banner at funeral procession.
The imposing simplicity of the funeral made a touching and exalting impression. The chanting of the De Profundus by the many thousands following the rude coffin, which was borne by peasants, heightened the impression. At the head of the cortege were two peasants, bearing an impoverished banner of coarse linen, attached to two birch poles, with the inscription: "The memory of your good deeds will not die amongst us."
The scene ends at the burial place at Yasnaya Polyana almost exactly as it had begun, but in black and white.
VOICE: A lot of fuss, letters, but when I die - within a year - they will be inquiring: Tolstoy? Ah, that count, who tried to cobble boots and something happened to him - that one?
Interspersed with our closing narrative comments and dialogue is the hymn ETERNAL MEMORY which was sung at the time. We must get an arrangement with a mass choir so we can use this as background. An older recording with some imperfections would be good so it would match the footage. This mingled with sounds of nightingales, horses whinnying, nature sounds that are evocative of Tolstoy's appreciation, fade on ETERNAL MEMORY, but less fade on the sounds so that in the end we hear the birds, dog barking, rooster crowing again etc.
POSTSCRIPT: A brief demonstration with children for an audience of SUPERHERO TOLSTOY.
A segment of this as film ends with fade out on this scene once it is established, this to indicate some lasting legacy of his work.
[See attached page for details of this puppet show.]
КОНЕЦ!
A GLIMPSE OF THE PETERSBURG PARADOX- 2001
Anyone with a hint of Russian ancestry and/or sympathy, deserves to experience St. Petersburg - a city full of paradox: culture, history, archaic impositions mixed with modern trends and modern pressures, all resulting in a strange amalgam, sometimes a mixture of confusion and schizophrenia. [I will point out some of the discrepancies and anomalies in brackets when convenient as well as in the main text.]
As it was, my pilgrimage coincided with the hadj, the first of many non-coincidences. Our trip from Tula took twelve hours, a distance of twelve hundred kilometres, this aboard a first class compartment which arrived within a few minutes of its projected schedule. A small additional fee provided bedding and towels, and tea in the morning. [The traditional tea pot has now given way to tea bags, but the old metal holders and glasses are still there]. Considering many present features of society in present day Russia, the service and efficiency and general comfort provided was remarkable.
The first Petersburg anomaly took place with the weather, this being the middle of March - our first day, the sun was shining, it was above zero and almost pleasantly spring-like. The next day we were greeted with slush, rain, snow, and a bitterly cold wind, reminiscent of an Alberta winter. As we walked through the slush towards the Hermitage Museum, elderly ladies were energetically sweeping and scraping the newly fallen snow into the gutter. As the traffic passed over it, it soon turned to slushy water. As the traffic continued at its high speed, [the road next to the Hermitage is a main artery], the cars were able to produce a slushy spray of about twenty feet, enough to shower most of the pedestrians unless they were alert enough to jump out of the way.
As it was, my pilgrimage coincided with the hadj, the first of many non-coincidences. Our trip from Tula took twelve hours, a distance of twelve hundred kilometres, this aboard a first class compartment which arrived within a few minutes of its projected schedule. A small additional fee provided bedding and towels, and tea in the morning. [The traditional tea pot has now given way to tea bags, but the old metal holders and glasses are still there]. Considering many present features of society in present day Russia, the service and efficiency and general comfort provided was remarkable.
The first Petersburg anomaly took place with the weather, this being the middle of March - our first day, the sun was shining, it was above zero and almost pleasantly spring-like. The next day we were greeted with slush, rain, snow, and a bitterly cold wind, reminiscent of an Alberta winter. As we walked through the slush towards the Hermitage Museum, elderly ladies were energetically sweeping and scraping the newly fallen snow into the gutter. As the traffic passed over it, it soon turned to slushy water. As the traffic continued at its high speed, [the road next to the Hermitage is a main artery], the cars were able to produce a slushy spray of about twenty feet, enough to shower most of the pedestrians unless they were alert enough to jump out of the way.
The Hermitage Museum, established in 1764 by Catherine the Great, is one of the most comprehensive art collections in the world - it would take several years for one person to see everything on display, not counting items in storage; allowing one day, [out of a total of six for us], we had to be selective. [A recent audit indicates that some pieces are now missing, so the time spent could be shortened].
Some highlights include perhaps the largest collection of Rembrandts in one room, pieces by de Vinci, and the Faberge workshop [don't look for any of the famous eggs though, what is left is in the Kremlin Museum, explanation being that all others left the country illegally; just recently, a decorative dagger belonging to Alexander III turned up aboard the Queen Mary in Los Angeles].
After a few hours, you may want to visit the washroom, fortunate if you brought your own paper. [In a country ruthlessly exploited for its still plentiful timber, there is a paper shortage, yet on any morning you may see and smell cardboard boxes and scrap lumber being burned at construction sites].
Beyond the endless exhibits; paintings, sculptures, objects d'art, are the buildings themselves, the throne rooms, the painted ceilings, the exquisite furniture, covering several blocks, what was once the private preserve of the privileged is now the domain of the citizenry which made it all possible. [How did they ever light the candles on those chandeliers, towering forty or fifty feet above us?]
Just as in the old days, some are more equal than others, the ticket ‘kontrol’, trained and observant with KGB precision, will quickly spot a foreigner [or a possible one] and his modest fee of a few roubles will quickly escalate multi-fold. [Unfortunately, not everyone has a well known wife with impeccable credentials who soon produces a written invitation from the Director of the Hermitage himself. [Throughout this entire Petersburg experience, my wife, Galina was most knowledgeable and invaluable as companion and guide, without her, I do not doubt that I would have been lost and in a quandary most of the time].
While the foreign multi-nationals exploit the country on a grand scale, the local officials exploit the foreigners on a lesser one, the rationale being that non-taxpayers should pay more for tax supported services [although I have met few taxpayers in Russia, however, I noticed that on most tramways and trolleys there is an attempt to collect the fares].
While the foreign multi-nationals exploit the country on a grand scale, the local officials exploit the foreigners on a lesser one, the rationale being that non-taxpayers should pay more for tax supported services [although I have met few taxpayers in Russia, however, I noticed that on most tramways and trolleys there is an attempt to collect the fares].
While you are on your feet for several hours, you may wish to sit for a minute to rest, but woe betide you if you lean on the wall, shelf or sit in the wrong place. One of the alert female ‘watchers’ will soon reprimand you in a less than genteel fashion, often saying: ‘Is this the first time you’ve been in a museum?’ [Most of these are mature ladies who take a resigned pride in their officiousness, in some other museums I observed some younger ones who appear as understudies for their later resigned maturity.]
Nearly all museums were full of children’s tours, and if your Russian comprehension was fair, it was convenient to go along and hear the well informed guides as they lectured to the students - this a heartening experience coming from a Canada where it is difficult to arrange a school museum tour because there is no money to pay the bus driver, let alone provide a subsidy for the museum.
Many of the buildings are undergoing renovation and restoration, and of course, they are strikingly handsome in their austere grandeur. One old feature that still needs revision is the system of water drainage off the roofs - it flows through the gutters to a central pipe and this pipe then deposits the water onto the side walk, thus ensuring continual ice or water on the streets as long as there is moisture in the air - only handy for washing your shoes and a continual threat for those less than stable on their feet or not wearing super grip shoes.
Nearly all museums were full of children’s tours, and if your Russian comprehension was fair, it was convenient to go along and hear the well informed guides as they lectured to the students - this a heartening experience coming from a Canada where it is difficult to arrange a school museum tour because there is no money to pay the bus driver, let alone provide a subsidy for the museum.
Many of the buildings are undergoing renovation and restoration, and of course, they are strikingly handsome in their austere grandeur. One old feature that still needs revision is the system of water drainage off the roofs - it flows through the gutters to a central pipe and this pipe then deposits the water onto the side walk, thus ensuring continual ice or water on the streets as long as there is moisture in the air - only handy for washing your shoes and a continual threat for those less than stable on their feet or not wearing super grip shoes.
Our modest [CN standards], luxurious [Russian standards], hotel was the ‘undergoing renovation’ Oktyabrskaya, with a view of Nevski Prospect, the main street, walking distance from the Moscow train station and near the Square of the Uprising [Vosstaniya]. We decided on a single room.
The bed reminded me of the torture where the victim was placed into a cage where he could not stand up or sit down. In the morning you were glad to get up to rest your aching bones and opt for the hot water kettle [which has replaced the samovar] down the hall to have your tea or coffee.
[The sizes of these beds were decreed at the same time that the past regime decreed the number of square metres allowed for each person in all apartments; all inadequately small, note this in the largest country in the world. Through such simple privations the Russians were conditioned for several generations to put up with discomfort and difficulty without a murmur and without dismay. It is this previous conditioning which now allows them to fall victim to the bureaucracy, continuing police state manipulation and the mafia, in fact any authority figure, without complaint, and to continue supporting the illegal oligarchs. [This is referred to as the acquired helplessness syndrome by Igor Kon, leading Russian psychologist].
Aside from the bed, the room was adequate with a small fridge, bathroom etc. After the first day of traversing by foot, my aching feet, legs and back were prompting desirous glances at the gigantic bath tub, [obviously a pre-Soviet era survivor].
There was no drain plug. After I improvised one from a lid, I thought that perhaps it was just as well; the water, which seemed clear when running from the tap, turned out to be brackish grey [this in a city surrounded by water and traversed by rivers and canals, no water is safe to drink].
In the hotel, you no longer have to surrender your passport although you must still surrender your keys to the dezhournaya upon leaving. [?] Nevski Prospect was a wonderful view from our window, an imposing wide street with wonderful, historic buildings occasionally marred by huge neon and picture representations of KODAK, FUJI and COCOA-COLA.
[The Americans have a blatant disregard for any culture or heritage not their own and think nothing of despoiling an architectural treasure hundreds of years old; of course the vested interests whose only interest is money, cooperate]
The bed reminded me of the torture where the victim was placed into a cage where he could not stand up or sit down. In the morning you were glad to get up to rest your aching bones and opt for the hot water kettle [which has replaced the samovar] down the hall to have your tea or coffee.
[The sizes of these beds were decreed at the same time that the past regime decreed the number of square metres allowed for each person in all apartments; all inadequately small, note this in the largest country in the world. Through such simple privations the Russians were conditioned for several generations to put up with discomfort and difficulty without a murmur and without dismay. It is this previous conditioning which now allows them to fall victim to the bureaucracy, continuing police state manipulation and the mafia, in fact any authority figure, without complaint, and to continue supporting the illegal oligarchs. [This is referred to as the acquired helplessness syndrome by Igor Kon, leading Russian psychologist].
Aside from the bed, the room was adequate with a small fridge, bathroom etc. After the first day of traversing by foot, my aching feet, legs and back were prompting desirous glances at the gigantic bath tub, [obviously a pre-Soviet era survivor].
There was no drain plug. After I improvised one from a lid, I thought that perhaps it was just as well; the water, which seemed clear when running from the tap, turned out to be brackish grey [this in a city surrounded by water and traversed by rivers and canals, no water is safe to drink].
In the hotel, you no longer have to surrender your passport although you must still surrender your keys to the dezhournaya upon leaving. [?] Nevski Prospect was a wonderful view from our window, an imposing wide street with wonderful, historic buildings occasionally marred by huge neon and picture representations of KODAK, FUJI and COCOA-COLA.
[The Americans have a blatant disregard for any culture or heritage not their own and think nothing of despoiling an architectural treasure hundreds of years old; of course the vested interests whose only interest is money, cooperate]
Unlike Moscow, St. Petersburg has a discernible, accessible downtown area, and from this street, almost all of the famous sites are practically in view. The best way to experience this city is by walking, you may walk this street and branch off or walk up to old palaces right on the main street, where there are tours. You can frequent the same grand stair cases frequented by many famous people or stand by the same column as Pushkin as he watched his wife dance in the grand ball room of Anichkov Palace [now dedicated to children’s activities], residence of Nicholas I, in jealous determination of revenge against the rival.
From there you may walk over to his apartment, [now a museum], then to the restaurant where he went for a coffee, before he met the alleged rival, and received the ball from a duelling pistol which ended his life. [The two first and most celebrated Russian poets, Pushkin and Lermontov, both died as a result of duel inflicted gunshot wounds].
Unlike Moscow, St. Petersburg has a discernible, accessible downtown area, and from this street, almost all of the famous sites are practically in view. The best way to experience this city is by walking, you may walk this street and branch off or walk up to old palaces right on the main street, where there are tours. You can frequent the same grand stair cases frequented by many famous people or stand by the same column as Pushkin as he watched his wife dance in the grand ball room of Anichkov Palace [now dedicated to children’s activities], residence of Nicholas I, in jealous determination of revenge against the rival.
From there you may walk over to his apartment, [now a museum], then to the restaurant where he went for a coffee, before he met the alleged rival, and received the ball from a duelling pistol which ended his life. [The two first and most celebrated Russian poets, Pushkin and Lermontov, both died as a result of duel inflicted gunshot wounds].
While the Hermitage may hold the world reputation for art museums, I believe that it is not necessarily superior to the State Russian Museum. It was established in 1898 under Alexander III, its mandate to collect notable works, which it has continued to do till this day. The collection is varied and immense, and the architecture of the building stunning, renovations having been completed for the centennial anniversary, and oh yes, there is paper in the western style washrooms, even if it is only newspaper. You can practise your Russian reading and even select objectionable pronouncements by Putin for appropriate disposal.
While Petersburg itself is a paradox, having been founded by Peter I in 1703, in an unlikely, difficult and foreboding location, his instinct for a beautiful city serving as a ‘window to Europe’ prevailed. However, not many of the present day residents seem to respect the heritage and wealth of history it is their privilege to live in. While the radio warns of asthmatic coughing as a possible sign of tuberculosis, the streets are littered with cigarette butts, spittle and assorted wrappings and a plethora of containers, paper, plastic, glass etc. [The appearance of the many kiosks offering ‘fast’ snacks and drinks have exacerbated the gigantic garbage problem].
Russia has embraced the disposable society without having the slightest idea of how to deal with the results or the resultant ecological problems. At the same time, there is also a curious reluctance to re-cycle, perhaps stemming from superstitions that old objects retain the spirits of previous users which could affect present users in a negative way. Is it inconceivable to mandate that each kiosk must be responsible for neighbouring litter? This could encourage them to provide garbage cans and take responsibility for the garbage they create as well as the profits they generate for themselves - of course, we are dealing here with sinister vested interests, and the enforcement of such a law is simply a non-starter.
Garbage in and garbage out - money can buy anything but class - on Nevski Prospect is a jewellery store where a uniformed doorman opens the door for you - the purveyors of these premises emerge dripping in furs and jewels and costumes of the most garish and unsophisticated taste - once a vulgarian, always a vulgarian, not improved by wealth.
As they step into the slush in their patent leather shoes [imported from Italy, no one of any pretense would wear anything made in Russia!], they dodge a one legged beggar; in fact, the variety of beggars beggars description: there are beggars of every type, resplendent in their novel approaches to affect the ‘trickle down’ effect. Children are used as decoys and approach you begging ‘for bread’ with out stretched hands, some determined ladies harangue you for a block or two in a foreign language, on the street are two dogs tied together with a sign ‘for our food’. Finally there is a girl leading a horse begging for money to buy feed for it - as some of the slush disappears the next day we jump over a pile of evidence that, yes indeed, the horse probably managed to eat the day before.
[Alexandra Marinina suggests that many people have made begging their profession. They have their own organizations and the city is divided in sectors that are bought and sold. If this is the case, it is a mark and credit of the Russian compassion, which having little for themselves, still donate enough to make this possible.]
In the meantime, the girls and aging ladies of Petersburg who probably can’t aspire to the elite jewellery store promenade the prospect with an aplomb befitting a model catwalk, exquisitely and tastefully dressed and made up in the latest fashion, they extrude an unabashed elegance, the aging ladies manoeuvre the street with an imposing dignity that suggests remnants of the aristocratic gene pool of the Petersburg of generations past.
Nevski Prospect boasts many fine coffee shops or ‘bistros’ - they vary in quality and price, and could include a dinner at a historic site such as that of the Literary Café, where such writers as Krylov, Belinsky, and Dostoevsky visited and argued, also visited by Pushkin on January 27, 1837, before his fatal duel.
Garbage in and garbage out - money can buy anything but class - on Nevski Prospect is a jewellery store where a uniformed doorman opens the door for you - the purveyors of these premises emerge dripping in furs and jewels and costumes of the most garish and unsophisticated taste - once a vulgarian, always a vulgarian, not improved by wealth.
As they step into the slush in their patent leather shoes [imported from Italy, no one of any pretense would wear anything made in Russia!], they dodge a one legged beggar; in fact, the variety of beggars beggars description: there are beggars of every type, resplendent in their novel approaches to affect the ‘trickle down’ effect. Children are used as decoys and approach you begging ‘for bread’ with out stretched hands, some determined ladies harangue you for a block or two in a foreign language, on the street are two dogs tied together with a sign ‘for our food’. Finally there is a girl leading a horse begging for money to buy feed for it - as some of the slush disappears the next day we jump over a pile of evidence that, yes indeed, the horse probably managed to eat the day before.
[Alexandra Marinina suggests that many people have made begging their profession. They have their own organizations and the city is divided in sectors that are bought and sold. If this is the case, it is a mark and credit of the Russian compassion, which having little for themselves, still donate enough to make this possible.]
In the meantime, the girls and aging ladies of Petersburg who probably can’t aspire to the elite jewellery store promenade the prospect with an aplomb befitting a model catwalk, exquisitely and tastefully dressed and made up in the latest fashion, they extrude an unabashed elegance, the aging ladies manoeuvre the street with an imposing dignity that suggests remnants of the aristocratic gene pool of the Petersburg of generations past.
Nevski Prospect boasts many fine coffee shops or ‘bistros’ - they vary in quality and price, and could include a dinner at a historic site such as that of the Literary Café, where such writers as Krylov, Belinsky, and Dostoevsky visited and argued, also visited by Pushkin on January 27, 1837, before his fatal duel.
Service, as price, can also vary. At one place we stopped at for a snack, the officious lady behind the counter took our order with mounting impatience, until the final item which was a request for a beer. When she asked what kind, I told her I wanted a Balticka. With a triumphal announcement reminiscent of Henry Ford she informed me that she only had one kind - Bochkarev [why ask?]. If you are a Macdonalized tourist and your taste runs to service with a self conscious smile, [smiling at a customer in any service sector is a new concept] you will have no trouble finding Kentucky Fried Chicken, Pizza Hut or the inevitable.
This was the beginning of the Lenten period [a religious period of fasting, most likely begun for dietary reasons as the spring thaws made the frozen and preserved meat unsafe to eat; meat products are finished off, as well as all dairy products in the later stages, then the fast begins until such time as chickens start laying again, more fresh meat is available etc., the fast lasting for six weeks. [This is observed by many Russians to some degree, except for special occasions.]
If you are observing Lent, or if you would like or need vegetarian food, there is such a specialty restaurant heavy on tofu, if your requirement is fish, you may dine on shark steak, crocodile filet [?], octopus or monk fish. Because St. Petersburg is a sea port, all manner of marine foods are available and proximity to the Scandinavian countries perhaps encourages innovative menus and preparations.
Many palaces came with their own theatres and recital halls, and there were many opportunities to hear specialized recitals which might feature Tchaikovsky or Baroque music, two concerts we heard at the Palace Belosel’sky - Belozersky and the Count Sheremet’ev Palace recital hall on Fontanka.
In addition to these smaller venues, there are huge traditional majestic theatres such as the Mariinsky, which has four balconies, and a resplendent Czar’s box complete with a huge golden crown on the top. Such a theatre was an ideal setting for the revival of War and Peace, a heroic, patriotic opera by Prokofeiv only partially produced in 1946, here mounted by Konchalovsky, a native film enigma returned from Hollywood where he had just completed an action flick with Stallone and Willis [‘my greatest inspiration was my honorarium’]. We attended the night after Putin had been there with Tony Blair. [The production an exhilarating experiment with English subtitles on a screen, not a total success, but kept you rivetted to your fourth gallery seat for five hours in two acts, this after severe cutting from the original text. It is destined for London, Paris and then New York].
And here, on the elegant drawing room on the second floor, the patrons promenade in a wide circle, chatting and meeting acquaintances, just as was done in past glory years, while on the floor below champagne and snacks are served. The Mariinsky is designed in blue and gold, for those who have attended the Bolshoi in Moscow, [where we saw La Sylphide,] you will remember that the Bolshoi is designed in red and gold.
Then there is the Russian State Dramatic Theatre, the Alexandrinsky, where we saw The Marriage by Gogol, the same stage where it was first produced in 1849. On this occasion we observed the second act from the Czar’s box itself after a chat with the usher - an opportunity to exercise one’s fantasy and imagination of the days gone by.
In addition to the many traditional theatres, is a new state of the art Mariinsky Theatre, walking distance from the hotel. Here we saw a ballet program featuring three of George Balanchine’s ballets with the stars of the Mariinsky ballet troupe.
Many palaces came with their own theatres and recital halls, and there were many opportunities to hear specialized recitals which might feature Tchaikovsky or Baroque music, two concerts we heard at the Palace Belosel’sky - Belozersky and the Count Sheremet’ev Palace recital hall on Fontanka.
In addition to these smaller venues, there are huge traditional majestic theatres such as the Mariinsky, which has four balconies, and a resplendent Czar’s box complete with a huge golden crown on the top. Such a theatre was an ideal setting for the revival of War and Peace, a heroic, patriotic opera by Prokofeiv only partially produced in 1946, here mounted by Konchalovsky, a native film enigma returned from Hollywood where he had just completed an action flick with Stallone and Willis [‘my greatest inspiration was my honorarium’]. We attended the night after Putin had been there with Tony Blair. [The production an exhilarating experiment with English subtitles on a screen, not a total success, but kept you rivetted to your fourth gallery seat for five hours in two acts, this after severe cutting from the original text. It is destined for London, Paris and then New York].
And here, on the elegant drawing room on the second floor, the patrons promenade in a wide circle, chatting and meeting acquaintances, just as was done in past glory years, while on the floor below champagne and snacks are served. The Mariinsky is designed in blue and gold, for those who have attended the Bolshoi in Moscow, [where we saw La Sylphide,] you will remember that the Bolshoi is designed in red and gold.
Then there is the Russian State Dramatic Theatre, the Alexandrinsky, where we saw The Marriage by Gogol, the same stage where it was first produced in 1849. On this occasion we observed the second act from the Czar’s box itself after a chat with the usher - an opportunity to exercise one’s fantasy and imagination of the days gone by.
In addition to the many traditional theatres, is a new state of the art Mariinsky Theatre, walking distance from the hotel. Here we saw a ballet program featuring three of George Balanchine’s ballets with the stars of the Mariinsky ballet troupe.
The Russian election is on the same day as the Oscars, and just as someone in America hijacked the Oscars, Yeltsin hijacks the Russian election by installing an heir, Putin, to look after his family interests, [this on condition that he will not be scrutinized for any improprieties].
The young soldiers in Chechnya vote ahead of the civilian population and are expected to vote for Putin, who put them there - why, you might ask? And why are they voting ahead of time? So they can get their vote in before they are killed? [Over 5000 killed so far, 6000 incapacitated; by and large, the vote in Chechnya goes to Zyuganov; Valeria Novodvorskaya, prominent writer comments: The only motivation for the war in Chechnya, for both the Russian people and the authorities, is to demonstrate that they are still capable of doing something.
With this in mind, we decide to walk in the opposite direction, and soon are at the historical cemetery. On one side are the renowned builders and politicians [over 1000 lots] - here you can see ancient sepulchres and tombs of the early founding fathers of the city, and some later ones as well - the grave of Sobchuk, past Mayor, a professor and probably not a criminal, fresh with his photograph and flowers, he died a natural death - next to him, also with photo and flowers, is the grave of Starovoitova, Member of Parliament for Petersburg, one of the first democrats under Gorbachev; she was murdered.
[Many people who speak out against the power elite are murdered, particularly many journalists of integrity. Once their death is reported, they are quickly forgotten, the ‘safe’ media being totally timorous, irresponsible and state opinionated. CNN is widely available, but carries little in-depth news, choosing to celebrate the joys of global economy via constant stock market reports and sport’s scores. Aside from the pornography channel available at the hotel, there are a few Russian channels dedicated to contest and game shows, interviews with old Soviet era stars, a bizarre brand of disco-rock featuring insolent would-be tough guy rappers and scantily dressed gyrating artless bimbos whose vacuousness is only matched by the burbling news readers who appear to have confused journalism with a fashion show - [where are the ‘producers’ of such programs, auditioning new aspirants?] - poorly dubbed soap operas from around the world, sports, American series and American inspired commercials sans pc and ad standards council. Russian production, very rare, now concentrates on emulating the worst American crime series with car chases, grisly murders and inane sex. Only the graphics and production values are excellent, the productions without substance - who said they wanted Russian TV in Canada?]
I wonder if Varvarin will end up in this prominent Tikhivin cemetery? Varvarin was a prestigious business man with political connections who was professionally executed as he stepped from his car, shortly before we arrived. Shortly after we returned to Tula, a colleague of his was executed in a similar fashion along with his little son - a dozen murders of late, none solved, a total of 1000 in 1999. [Among more honourable distinctions, Petersburg deserves its distinction as the criminal capital of Russia].
Wading through the slush, snow and rain falling, we move to the other side of the cemetery, and here are all of the famous poets, musicians, artists - here you may rub shoulders with the innovative tombstones of Dostoevsky, Glinka, Borodin, Tchaikovsky, and countless other world famous painters, composers, actors, directors etc.
The graves are marked by impressive tombstones fashioned by the leading inventive sculptors of the day, and in themselves, offer a note worthy exhibit. Unfortunately, on both sides, some of the older sepulchres are decaying and disintegrating, the constant moisture and the cold winters are a plague on the ornate stone and brass works, and as moisture fills the cracks and freezes, over the years the works crumble, there is no money to keep them in repair or to seal them with techniques now available. [In general, the Russians are open to availing themselves of the new technology, however, very often, there is no ‘follow through’.]
Having an Advanced Photo System camera with me which took pictures in three different size formats, and anxious to see some of the photographs we had taken, we located a ‘state of the art’ photo shop which developed such film - however - after we received it, at more cost than we would have paid in Canada, all of the pictures were of the same size!
[Will there ever be an end to all of the slamming doors in Russia? To the variety of locks which all work in separate ways and separate directions? To paving and concrete laying that does not seem to be designed to collect water, creating discomfort for the user and eventual disintegration for the roads and side walks? To flushing toilets that do not flush, instead collect refuse for the next flush? And where can one buy a decent hammer or a pair of pliers? And where is an acceptable public washroom that is not abhorrent?]
In addition to these two famous necropolii, is a totally enclosed sepulchre, housing several grave sites of outstanding generals and statesmen, and here brass plates and sculptors once more denote their passing.
All of these are on the grounds of the Alexandro-Nevski Laura, the highest ranking monastery, comprised of various huge buildings and an imposing cathedral begun in 1713. This is also the oldest necropolis in Petersburg.
To return, we must once more pass over a wide boulevard, and have only just enough time to cross before the relentless traffic either sprays us or runs us down - the ancient well designed wide boulevards for genteel carriage travel are now ideal for the Mercedes, Audis, Volgas, Ladas, Kamaz - in a city where few people own cars and streets are crowded, all traffic management is on the side of the automobile. You may walk for blocks before you come to an intersection cross walk, there are no diagonal cross walks at major intersections, there are no cross walks except at traffic lights - and if you choose to take your chances jay walking, you’d better be nimble and alert. Just as in the olden days when the hoi polloi scrambled to stay out of the way of carriages lest they be run down, so the same applies with the modern automobile - in Russia, any person behind the wheel of a car turns into a demon who is automatically superior to anyone on their feet and entitled to run you down - stay out of their way. [Any driver who slows for a pedestrian is automatically noted as a foreigner].
Occasionally, when going to a theatre in the evening, one may wish to avail oneself of what appears to be a reasonably priced cab. The cabs are metered so the popular extortionist method of bargaining is not possible - however, the technique of giving you a non-guided tour of the city is, which will run up the metre to about double of what you expected to pay. When we questioned the driver about this on one occasion, his response, in all innocence, was: ‘Well, if you wanted to travel on that route, you should have said so’.
To return, we must once more pass over a wide boulevard, and have only just enough time to cross before the relentless traffic either sprays us or runs us down - the ancient well designed wide boulevards for genteel carriage travel are now ideal for the Mercedes, Audis, Volgas, Ladas, Kamaz - in a city where few people own cars and streets are crowded, all traffic management is on the side of the automobile. You may walk for blocks before you come to an intersection cross walk, there are no diagonal cross walks at major intersections, there are no cross walks except at traffic lights - and if you choose to take your chances jay walking, you’d better be nimble and alert. Just as in the olden days when the hoi polloi scrambled to stay out of the way of carriages lest they be run down, so the same applies with the modern automobile - in Russia, any person behind the wheel of a car turns into a demon who is automatically superior to anyone on their feet and entitled to run you down - stay out of their way. [Any driver who slows for a pedestrian is automatically noted as a foreigner].
Occasionally, when going to a theatre in the evening, one may wish to avail oneself of what appears to be a reasonably priced cab. The cabs are metered so the popular extortionist method of bargaining is not possible - however, the technique of giving you a non-guided tour of the city is, which will run up the metre to about double of what you expected to pay. When we questioned the driver about this on one occasion, his response, in all innocence, was: ‘Well, if you wanted to travel on that route, you should have said so’.
On the last day, we visit Count Sheremet’ev Palace, one of the wealthiest of the gentry, owner of 300,000 serfs [yes, 300,000!], his palace surprisingly modest and elegant. Perhaps as a premonition for equality to follow, he had his own trained serf opera company, and in defiance of the Emperor, ended up marrying and living happily with the beautiful serf star of the company. [As you walk through the other galleries, you will see countless paintings and art objects collected and donated by Count Sheremet’ev, one aristocrat whose passing may be mourned by anyone].
Next door is the impressive Mikhailovsky Castle, built in 1801 by Paul I, and here, in his own private gallery, we meet our ancient ancestor [?], Fyodor Verigin , head stol’nik to Peter the Great and his brother Ivan, a portrait painted in 1690. [No pictures: A stol’nik was a position of Palace rank, being in charge of formal dinners as well as military and diplomatic arrangements, the stol’nik was also a tour organizer and assisted the Emperor throughout his travels.]
Before catching the evening pre-booked return passage we had time to search for the Museum of Religion, but when we went to the Kazansky Cathedral, the previous site and burial place of the famous General Kutuzov who defeated Napoleon, we are told that the Museum of Religion is undergoing renovation in a separate location and all artifacts are in storage.
Next door is the impressive Mikhailovsky Castle, built in 1801 by Paul I, and here, in his own private gallery, we meet our ancient ancestor [?], Fyodor Verigin , head stol’nik to Peter the Great and his brother Ivan, a portrait painted in 1690. [No pictures: A stol’nik was a position of Palace rank, being in charge of formal dinners as well as military and diplomatic arrangements, the stol’nik was also a tour organizer and assisted the Emperor throughout his travels.]
Before catching the evening pre-booked return passage we had time to search for the Museum of Religion, but when we went to the Kazansky Cathedral, the previous site and burial place of the famous General Kutuzov who defeated Napoleon, we are told that the Museum of Religion is undergoing renovation in a separate location and all artifacts are in storage.
This was also the week of the 29th International Conference of the Department of Philology at the St. Petersburg State University. Many papers were presented by international scholars, including Dr. Galina Alexeeva, and there was ample opportunity to participate in the discussions and explore divergent views on a variety of topics such as revisionism in Shakespeare, the Canadian identity as evidenced in the works of Timothy Findley, and diverse topics dealing with language.
Near by at the Institute of Russian Literature at the Russian Academy of Sciences, were two excellent small museums dedicated to Lev Tolstoy and Pushkin, and the staff there, who we had met on previous occasions, were anxious to give us a personalized tour.
To say this visit was over whelming is an understatement. As mentioned in the beginning, it would take years to see all of the items of the Hermitage and Winter Palace alone. It would take years more to see only part of what the rest of this fascinating city has to offer - and that is to see - but also to hear, feel, experience, and live through only part of the entire city, to taste, to partake, to commiserate, to be baffled, bewildered and awe struck all at the same time, confronted, confused and stimulated to wonder - Petersburg has lived and experienced the glory and agony that is the Russian soul, and a penetrating visit there cannot help but affect the sensitive visitor in a profound and moving way as it presents some of this inescapable history and heritage.
One of the Presidential hopefuls, interestingly enough a Chechen, suggested that St. Petersburg should be shampooed for a year, only then it would emerge as the sparkling jewel of the Baltic that it truly is - be that as it may, there is plenty to discover beneath the grime, and one should not let the fear of insanit[y]ation dissuade you from making such discoveries.
This was also the week of the 29th International Conference of the Department of Philology at the St. Petersburg State University. Many papers were presented by international scholars, including Dr. Galina Alexeeva, and there was ample opportunity to participate in the discussions and explore divergent views on a variety of topics such as revisionism in Shakespeare, the Canadian identity as evidenced in the works of Timothy Findley, and diverse topics dealing with language.
Near by at the Institute of Russian Literature at the Russian Academy of Sciences, were two excellent small museums dedicated to Lev Tolstoy and Pushkin, and the staff there, who we had met on previous occasions, were anxious to give us a personalized tour.
To say this visit was over whelming is an understatement. As mentioned in the beginning, it would take years to see all of the items of the Hermitage and Winter Palace alone. It would take years more to see only part of what the rest of this fascinating city has to offer - and that is to see - but also to hear, feel, experience, and live through only part of the entire city, to taste, to partake, to commiserate, to be baffled, bewildered and awe struck all at the same time, confronted, confused and stimulated to wonder - Petersburg has lived and experienced the glory and agony that is the Russian soul, and a penetrating visit there cannot help but affect the sensitive visitor in a profound and moving way as it presents some of this inescapable history and heritage.
One of the Presidential hopefuls, interestingly enough a Chechen, suggested that St. Petersburg should be shampooed for a year, only then it would emerge as the sparkling jewel of the Baltic that it truly is - be that as it may, there is plenty to discover beneath the grime, and one should not let the fear of insanit[y]ation dissuade you from making such discoveries.
CATCHING UP WITH VOLODYA GUBONOV – Doukhobor Artist - Nov. 2001
Some years ago, in preparation for the Centennial of the Arms Burning by the Doukhobors, [1895-1995] the Canadian Doukhobor Society and the Doukhobor Centennial Coordinating Committee carried out a number of fund raising activities. One that I was particularly enthusiastic about was a raffle of a painting by Volodya Gubonov.
Volodya was a Doukhobor artist from Georgia, graduate of one of the most prestigious schools of art in Russia, the Moscow Academy of Painting originally named after Strogonov. I had met him while travelling through the Doukhobor re-settlement villages of Chern Rion and had encouraged him to hold an exhibit of his painting at Yasnaya Polyana, the estate museum of Leo Tolstoy. Along the way of our relationship, he had presented me with three of his fine works, one of which illustrated two Doukhobor ladies. This one I donated for the raffle.
An other was Lukeria Kalmakova as a young girl, with the peschari in the back ground.
All had hung in my home as constant reminders of pleasant times we had spent in the past and my desire was to share them with a wider audience. The image of Lukeria I donated to the Doukhobor Discovery Centre, where I was the Curator.
One more is still with me, and will eventually be donated to a public venue.
One more is still with me, and will eventually be donated to a public venue.
Funds from this raffle fund raising venture were to be used to assist in the costs of bringing Volodya on a working visit to Canada, and I agreed that such a visit would be a suitable and appropriate part of our Centennial celebrations.
The fund raising was a success and Volodya was on his way. He travelled across Canada, mostly with the help of Koozma Tarasoff, who devoted much of his own time and finances to aid in the visit. Other Canadian Doukhobors such as Elmer Verigin in Castlegar, and Alex Ewashen in Creston, others in Saskatchewan, hosted him and assisted in his travels. In all, Volodya visited for four months in Canada, mostly spending time with Doukhobors, sketch pad in hand, and appearing at various Centennial functions.
The fund raising was a success and Volodya was on his way. He travelled across Canada, mostly with the help of Koozma Tarasoff, who devoted much of his own time and finances to aid in the visit. Other Canadian Doukhobors such as Elmer Verigin in Castlegar, and Alex Ewashen in Creston, others in Saskatchewan, hosted him and assisted in his travels. In all, Volodya visited for four months in Canada, mostly spending time with Doukhobors, sketch pad in hand, and appearing at various Centennial functions.
In the end I presided over the raffle draw for the painting, and the winner, Peter Negraev, a Doukhobor from Calgary, donated it to the USCC Hall in Brilliant. [The USCC later donated it to the Doukhobor Discovery Centre].
Fred Schenkel, friend and master craftsman from Creston, donated an excellent easel stand for the painting: two Russian Doukhobor ladies in traditional dress.
Fred Schenkel, friend and master craftsman from Creston, donated an excellent easel stand for the painting: two Russian Doukhobor ladies in traditional dress.
Following that time, our contacts were sporadic. In 1996 we met in Tula when I needed additional footage for a film I was making about him. After that it seemed impossible to contact him, his phone seemed to be disconnected. Then we spoke briefly when I was in Russia but we were unable to meet, then we lost contact completely. In the fall I resolved to find out where he was, and began to make plans to visit Tuapsi, his last known residence.
To our great relief, we re-established contact through various phone calls and other contacts who had known him; and with my wife Galina, and my brother Bob and his wife Enid, we set out to reacquaint ourselves.
Our transport was a train trip of thirty-three hours, a journey from Tula to the south passing through major cities such as Kursk, Voronezh, Rostov, then finally Tuapsi, the famous port on the Black Sea Coast.
Our journey took us through major industrial areas of Russia. Sunlight came streaming in through our dust grimed, near opaque windows at 3:45 in the morning, revealing huge coal fields, coal which we later discovered was still used to fuel the stoves which kept the hot water kettles simmering in the otherwise modern electric coach. A quick trip down the hall way would allow you to return with scalding hot water which we could then turn into a coffee or tea which we had brought as part of our supplies. If you forgot cups, these could be easily obtained gratis, stylish glasses in metal holders.
To our great relief, we re-established contact through various phone calls and other contacts who had known him; and with my wife Galina, and my brother Bob and his wife Enid, we set out to reacquaint ourselves.
Our transport was a train trip of thirty-three hours, a journey from Tula to the south passing through major cities such as Kursk, Voronezh, Rostov, then finally Tuapsi, the famous port on the Black Sea Coast.
Our journey took us through major industrial areas of Russia. Sunlight came streaming in through our dust grimed, near opaque windows at 3:45 in the morning, revealing huge coal fields, coal which we later discovered was still used to fuel the stoves which kept the hot water kettles simmering in the otherwise modern electric coach. A quick trip down the hall way would allow you to return with scalding hot water which we could then turn into a coffee or tea which we had brought as part of our supplies. If you forgot cups, these could be easily obtained gratis, stylish glasses in metal holders.
If your sack of food ran out, each major stop featured enterprising peddlers eager to supply you with beer, pirogees, cutlets [meat balls], mineral water, Kezinacki [sunflower cakes], various pastries and pirogies, cream puff tubes, pickles, a variety of smoked fish, crabs, potatoes, honey, onions, carrots, persimmons, apples, grapes, and a variety of breads. All very appetizing and inexpensive.
Our comfortable coach compartment which the four of us shared enjoyed the amenities of a first class hotel room service although you might have to take a short walk to obtain these delights. There also was room service; the stewardess provided the dining car menu and you could order any item to be delivered to your compartment. If you chose to dine in the dining car, it was not far away, the menu and service were excellent, the prices modest. If a light snack is all that is needed, a vendor came by with a variety of drinks and snacks, ranging from beer to 7-Up to chips and sandwiches. Another vendor would provide newspapers, cards and assorted smaller items. Our thirty-three hour trip was comfortable and picturesque.
We arrived in Tuapsi about 8:00 a.m., a full action-packed day ahead of us. Volodya was there to meet us with his charming wife Olga, and a company van and driver.
Our comfortable coach compartment which the four of us shared enjoyed the amenities of a first class hotel room service although you might have to take a short walk to obtain these delights. There also was room service; the stewardess provided the dining car menu and you could order any item to be delivered to your compartment. If you chose to dine in the dining car, it was not far away, the menu and service were excellent, the prices modest. If a light snack is all that is needed, a vendor came by with a variety of drinks and snacks, ranging from beer to 7-Up to chips and sandwiches. Another vendor would provide newspapers, cards and assorted smaller items. Our thirty-three hour trip was comfortable and picturesque.
We arrived in Tuapsi about 8:00 a.m., a full action-packed day ahead of us. Volodya was there to meet us with his charming wife Olga, and a company van and driver.
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Bags loaded, we set out for the town of Nebug. In Russia, as in other countries, many towns and villages are named for the river on which they are settled. Volodya’s village was named because it was not on a particular river. About twenty minutes from Tuapsi over curving mountain roads we arrived at Nebug, so named by the Cossacks who had first arrived there, saw the small river, and said it was not the Bug, a larger river of the area.
Volodya and Olga were pleased to return the hospitality that he had received in Canada, and we were soon seated in his spacious dining room for a delicious brunch. Although he could have continued to work for Gasprom throughout the winter, the huge conglomerate involving former Prime Minister Chernomyrdin and other oligarchs responsible for all construction in the area, Volodya was taking the winter off to work on completing construction of his own home.
We are settled into our rooms and given a tour of this work in progress. In this ‘house’ or motel building, there are several rooms: a studio, a gallery, a large kitchen, bathrooms etc. the idea being that part of it will be a motel and he will rent out spaces for summer tourists. The home is well constructed from brick covered in sandstone, three stories with self contained separate entrance units. Floors are marble lacquered tiles.
Nebug is a prime resort area and in the summer time the population multiplies as tourists from around the world as well as from across Russia flock to the Black Sea coast. It is on the ocean with a huge waterfront park, large resort hotels and condominiums and rest homes offering world class restaurants, exercise rooms, saunas, sports, fishing, and even hunting lodges farther inland in the Caucasus mountains.
It is also near the old Doukhobor settlement areas of Georgia, near Chechnya, and many Doukhobors have moved here to live a simple village life or to retire. This village is also not far from the historic departure site of the Doukhobors for Canada, the port city of Batoum.
Bags loaded, we set out for the town of Nebug. In Russia, as in other countries, many towns and villages are named for the river on which they are settled. Volodya’s village was named because it was not on a particular river. About twenty minutes from Tuapsi over curving mountain roads we arrived at Nebug, so named by the Cossacks who had first arrived there, saw the small river, and said it was not the Bug, a larger river of the area.
Volodya and Olga were pleased to return the hospitality that he had received in Canada, and we were soon seated in his spacious dining room for a delicious brunch. Although he could have continued to work for Gasprom throughout the winter, the huge conglomerate involving former Prime Minister Chernomyrdin and other oligarchs responsible for all construction in the area, Volodya was taking the winter off to work on completing construction of his own home.
We are settled into our rooms and given a tour of this work in progress. In this ‘house’ or motel building, there are several rooms: a studio, a gallery, a large kitchen, bathrooms etc. the idea being that part of it will be a motel and he will rent out spaces for summer tourists. The home is well constructed from brick covered in sandstone, three stories with self contained separate entrance units. Floors are marble lacquered tiles.
Nebug is a prime resort area and in the summer time the population multiplies as tourists from around the world as well as from across Russia flock to the Black Sea coast. It is on the ocean with a huge waterfront park, large resort hotels and condominiums and rest homes offering world class restaurants, exercise rooms, saunas, sports, fishing, and even hunting lodges farther inland in the Caucasus mountains.
It is also near the old Doukhobor settlement areas of Georgia, near Chechnya, and many Doukhobors have moved here to live a simple village life or to retire. This village is also not far from the historic departure site of the Doukhobors for Canada, the port city of Batoum.
It is Volodya’s hope that many Doukhobors from Canada will come to vacation in his village and stay at his hotel where he plans to charge a minimal fee of $30 per couple daily including meals. [His intention is to charge only enough to make expenses.] He is planning a gallery to feature portraits of Doukhobors, some of his work from Canada, and a small museum of local Doukhobor artifacts and costumes. Potential guests to Volodya’s hotel will be happy to know that they will be eligible to attend the amenities of the other complexes where he has connections. This would include everything from tennis courts, saunas to tours.
With brunch over and baggage deposited, we were soon off to see the local sights, an ideal time to be there as the weather was still summer but the summer crowds were not there. Through his influence as an employee of the firm and also his position as a member of the town administration, we were essentially given carte blanche on our tours through various facilities.
We take a break for a café au lait at a roof top lounge with a stunning view of the Black Sea, later we will walk down upon the beach, now we tour some of the local attractions. The ocean is everywhere, and there are miles of beach still undeveloped and used by the local populace for their own entertainment. Local ordinances prohibit town sewage from being put into the sea and along the beach we saw evidence of drift wood fires, mute testimony to pleasant hours spent in the past.
It is Volodya’s hope that many Doukhobors from Canada will come to vacation in his village and stay at his hotel where he plans to charge a minimal fee of $30 per couple daily including meals. [His intention is to charge only enough to make expenses.] He is planning a gallery to feature portraits of Doukhobors, some of his work from Canada, and a small museum of local Doukhobor artifacts and costumes. Potential guests to Volodya’s hotel will be happy to know that they will be eligible to attend the amenities of the other complexes where he has connections. This would include everything from tennis courts, saunas to tours.
With brunch over and baggage deposited, we were soon off to see the local sights, an ideal time to be there as the weather was still summer but the summer crowds were not there. Through his influence as an employee of the firm and also his position as a member of the town administration, we were essentially given carte blanche on our tours through various facilities.
We take a break for a café au lait at a roof top lounge with a stunning view of the Black Sea, later we will walk down upon the beach, now we tour some of the local attractions. The ocean is everywhere, and there are miles of beach still undeveloped and used by the local populace for their own entertainment. Local ordinances prohibit town sewage from being put into the sea and along the beach we saw evidence of drift wood fires, mute testimony to pleasant hours spent in the past.
Nearby at the Molniya Hotel, the seasonal rate is $70. daily per person, and only $25 daily with breakfast in the off season. The Molniya , now 40 % owned by Gasprom, has 247 rooms, though there were only five guests when we were there. Before the effective demise of the space program, this hotel was to have been a rest and recuperation centre for cosmonauts. Now it presents itself as a rest centre for athletes. A recent guest, a native of the area, Yevgeny Kafelnikov, was for a time, the top seeded tennis player in the world. In this same hotel, the six of us had a delicious fare well dinner in the luxurious restaurant for about $10. per couple; there was a full menu and we were the only guests in the dining room.
Nebug is a town famous for rest and vacation. The healing centre is known as the ЯМАЛ ОТДЫХ И ЛЕЧЕНЙ - there are two huge sanatoriums which offer programs and cures for a variety of ailments ranging from obesity to stress, dental problems to alcoholism – all schedules are supervised by medical personnel and each guest is treated individually. Treatment methods are of the latest techniques including massotherapy, lymphomassage, electromud, laser therapy, magnetotherapy, reflexotherapy and electrophoresis. Although the aquatic park is closed for the season, treatments are offered year round and many famous people from Russia and the world over have attended these facilities. The older sanatorium can be contracted for $25 to $40 per person daily, with three meals, the newer more expensive complex ranges in prices from $75. daily to $150. daily, more for the presidential suite. We toured the various rooms, and without exception, they were all neat and elegant, and in the higher price range, exceptionally luxurious with ocean views, fridges and stoves and antique furniture as well as decorative art works. [All prices US dollars].
We availed ourselves of the banya [steam room], private cubicles; in the foyer a 'cool down' pool, juice bar, and many types of exercise equipment, including a pool table. Massages also available.
We remarked that the construction standard, especially of the newer complex, seemed to be superior to the usual Russian standard. Volodya explained that most of the work was done by Turkish labour under Bulgarian supervision. He said that the Turks worked like slaves, and were beaten unmercifully for making any errors. [Workers’ rights and benefits have steadily eroded since the new ‘freedoms’, and now approach conditions from the days of the industrial revolution. I have talked with miners who told me that it was not unusual to walk around or over a dead body after an accident and continue working. At the present time, legislation is being enacted which will call for a voluntary twelve hour work day. Of course, the ‘non-volunteers’ may not receive employment].
We availed ourselves of the banya [steam room], private cubicles; in the foyer a 'cool down' pool, juice bar, and many types of exercise equipment, including a pool table. Massages also available.
We remarked that the construction standard, especially of the newer complex, seemed to be superior to the usual Russian standard. Volodya explained that most of the work was done by Turkish labour under Bulgarian supervision. He said that the Turks worked like slaves, and were beaten unmercifully for making any errors. [Workers’ rights and benefits have steadily eroded since the new ‘freedoms’, and now approach conditions from the days of the industrial revolution. I have talked with miners who told me that it was not unusual to walk around or over a dead body after an accident and continue working. At the present time, legislation is being enacted which will call for a voluntary twelve hour work day. Of course, the ‘non-volunteers’ may not receive employment].
On our morning walk, we soon arrived at the Aquatic Park, closed for the season – however, at Volodya’s behest, the guards soon let us in.
There we saw one of the important symbols of the area, the ‘leaping dolphin’, designed by Volodya. He laughingly informed us that his fee for this design made it possible to build his new house [he still maintains his original apartment].
Along the way we ran into various friends and neighbours, who all knew him by name, many of them Doukhobors from the strife torn areas, some of whom he employs from time to time. Traces of nearby violence and the Chechyen war spill over to this tranquil town: Volodya’s neighbour was lovingly restoring a 26 year old Volga, ‘an original classic’. On this venerable car’s maiden voyage, he went to Sochi to pick up his daughter who was coming for a visit. That day there was an explosion and terrorist bomb scare at the station. The daughter ended up coming on the bus the following day, the train station being temporarily closed.
On our morning walk, we soon arrived at the Aquatic Park, closed for the season – however, at Volodya’s behest, the guards soon let us in.
There we saw one of the important symbols of the area, the ‘leaping dolphin’, designed by Volodya. He laughingly informed us that his fee for this design made it possible to build his new house [he still maintains his original apartment].
Along the way we ran into various friends and neighbours, who all knew him by name, many of them Doukhobors from the strife torn areas, some of whom he employs from time to time. Traces of nearby violence and the Chechyen war spill over to this tranquil town: Volodya’s neighbour was lovingly restoring a 26 year old Volga, ‘an original classic’. On this venerable car’s maiden voyage, he went to Sochi to pick up his daughter who was coming for a visit. That day there was an explosion and terrorist bomb scare at the station. The daughter ended up coming on the bus the following day, the train station being temporarily closed.
One highlight of our visit was an outdoor picnic. Packing bags of provisions one morning, we were soon on our way into the Caucasus. On the way we met friends and neighbours, including one of the legendary long livers of the area, a one hundred year old lady who observed us as we picked some persimmons in her relative’s garden. A short hike and we were in the woods, where Volodya’s brother, Boris, quickly had a small but efficient fire going. Shishlacki were on their way, with an appropriate classic beverage! This day resulted in one of the most memorable picnics we had ever enjoyed. There was no danger of being molested by bears or other wild life. [Unlike Canada, there is no toleration for wildlife anywhere near the town and all such previous inhabitants who have blundered within gunshot range have been ruthlessly exterminated.]
Shortly before our return, we took a trip to Tuapsi to buy our tickets. Taking in the sights of this ancient city, with its variety of architectural styles, we ended up in the market area around lunch time. There we sampled the Georgian national dish, Khachapurie. This was a dough base, with melted sheep cheese and an egg baked on top, then ladled over with butter. Eaten by hand - Rich and scrumptious!
At the train station we discovered that we would have to travel return through Moscow. Because of the October Revolution holiday and many travellers, there were no tickets direct to Tula. On the bus ride back to Nebug over the steep, curving mountain road, a front tire blew. The skillful driver managed to halt the bus before it careened over the cliff, all passengers simply got out and continued their journey on foot – they seemed quite accustomed to such events. Some days later, there was an accident on this road which resulted in a fatality. This is not surprising as drivers routinely over-drive for the conditions of the vehicles and the road, the horn is used instead of brakes, and even for a person with steely nerves, there is a numbing, sinking sensation to be hurtling along in one of these cars through a driving blizzard or rainstorm where the windshield reveals only a grey spot ahead, since the feeble wipers hardly work, strangers to windshield washer.
Our compartment on the return to Moscow was even more elegant than our journey there, the train less than a year old and modern in all aspects. After our wonderful farewell evening restaurant dinner, it was time to begin the journey out of the sunshine, and into the reality of the seasonal weather of November in central Russia.
But what a respite we had! Our re-acquaintance with Volodya and Olga was truly one of the highlights of this year's trip to Russia.
Volodya and Olga send a big hello to all of their Canadian Doukhobor friends! They invite you and are eager and anxious to entertain you in their new motel complex!
[Since this was written we have heard that Volodoy’s complex is complete].
More on Volodya: goo.gl/j30guR.
For more on Nebug:
www.google.ca/search?q=Nebug+Russia&oq=Nebug+russia&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i60l2j35i39j69i59j69i60.24710j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Our compartment on the return to Moscow was even more elegant than our journey there, the train less than a year old and modern in all aspects. After our wonderful farewell evening restaurant dinner, it was time to begin the journey out of the sunshine, and into the reality of the seasonal weather of November in central Russia.
But what a respite we had! Our re-acquaintance with Volodya and Olga was truly one of the highlights of this year's trip to Russia.
Volodya and Olga send a big hello to all of their Canadian Doukhobor friends! They invite you and are eager and anxious to entertain you in their new motel complex!
[Since this was written we have heard that Volodoy’s complex is complete].
More on Volodya: goo.gl/j30guR.
For more on Nebug:
www.google.ca/search?q=Nebug+Russia&oq=Nebug+russia&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i60l2j35i39j69i59j69i60.24710j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8